Marilyn Lewis, the late American designer behind Cardinali and the classic Marlo Thomas sitcom continues to influence fashion today.
Despite Lewis’s relatively short career, lasting just nine years — the Ohio native gave up fashion in 1977 to focus on her marriage to actor Harry L. Lewis — she made quite an impact on a certain coterie of L.A. insiders. Improbably, Lewis (1929–2017) met many of them through the legendary Sunset Boulevard restaurant Hamburger Hamlet, which she cofounded with her husband in 1950.
“Betsy Bloomingdale and Dyan Cannon knew Marilyn because she owned the hot Hamburger Hamlet,” says vintage-clothing dealer Ricky Serbin. Her patrons “were attracted to Cardinali because they knew style and quality,” he adds, pointing out that many of them also bought couture. More customers followed, including First Lady Nancy Reagan and singers Eydie Gormé and Dionne Warwick. Actress Marlo Thomas personally signed up Lewis to design the costumes for her hit television sitcom, That Girl, which ran from 1966 to ’71.
Fashion’s current nostalgia for the 1970s is partly what turned San Francisco’s Serbin on to Lewis, a self-taught creative who, as a teenager made fashion sketches and aspired to be a model. When she moved to the West Coast from her hometown of Cleveland, Lewis began designing under the name Cardinali, the label she founded in the late 1960s. Her collection was sold through Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and other retailers.
Serbin wasn’t well acquainted with Lewis — one of a handful of so-called California couturiers based in Los Angeles at the time — but he recognized the “now-ness” of her designs.
Although Cardinali was an American fashion house, Lewis had a European flair that her customers gravitated toward, and many of her fabrics were imported from the region.
According to Harold Koda, fashion scholar and former curator in charge at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the name Cardinali — Lewis’s homage to her Italian grandmother — suggests an “affinity for Italian designers. The French knew how to do sexy, but the Italians knew how to do sensual.”
Lewis — who couldn’t sew but created everything from black silk jersey blouses and wool winter hats to tweed suit skirts and colorful floral day dresses — understood, as did her fellow designer Yves Saint Laurent, that women of the time wanted to feel sexy without looking gauche.
“Good designers of that era caught on to providing comfort at the same time as showing curves and skin,” says Marci Rosenberg Samuels, a Houston-based collector who deals under the name Mrs. Couture and wears both Cardinali and YSL. “Cardinali did that, Saint Laurent did that, and so did Stephen Burrows and Giorgio di Sant' Angelo in their own ways.”
And the easy ’70s sensibility that Lewis and so many others championed? It is alive and well, as evidenced by the runway creations of designers Alessandro Michele and Pierpaolo Piccioli and the number of celebrities lining up to wear them, from musicians Florence Welch and Rihanna to actress Tilda Swinton.
Find vintage Cardinali evening dresses, suits and other clothing for sale on 1stDibs.
1970s Cardinali Silk Brocade Dress by Marilyn Lewis, Size 2/4
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Beautiful 1970 Cardinali silk brocade dress. 3/4 sleeve. Bust: 32"/ Waist: 30"/ Hip:34" / length: 52" Fit petite size 2/4 Dress lined in silk
1970s CARDINALI Green and pink circle sequin gown
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
FOR DESIGN INSPIRATION or STUDY only. The fabric is fatigued in left shoulder area with various small tears and small holes. see last picture. size: 6. Bust: 36"/ Waist: 32"/ Length: 56" Marylin Lewis started her clothing line late 60s, using the most luxurious and fines fabrics from italy.
Cardinali Fall 1969 Original Sample Chiffon Bra & Sheer Vintage 60s Tunic Dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Directly from Marilyn Lewis' estate! Lewis was the founder / designer for Cardinali. She was a bored housewife with two children in the 1960s, and was a fashion icon with an enormou...
Tom Ford/Gwyneth Paltrow Iconic Oscar Gown & Cape New!
By Tom Ford, Gucci
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Super stunning iconic Tom Ford evening gown with matching cape. Identical to the one worn by Gwyneth Paltrow to the Oscars. The gown fashioned of off white silk crepe and lined in...
Size: Equivalent size France 38
An Hubert de Givenchy French Couture Cream and Black silk Evening Set Circa 1965
By Givenchy
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1958/1965 France Rare grand soir ensemble, dress and cape coat in champagne and black silk shantung designed by Hubert de Givenchy Haute Couture dating from the 1960s. Sheath d...
Christian Dior by John Galliano Lace Camisole and Skirt Set
By Christian Dior, John Galliano
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous 2 piece set in white lace from Christian Dior. It consists of a scoop neck camisole tank style top and straight midi length skirt in alt...
Size: XS, S, M
Moschino Couture Embroidered Words Top and Skirt
By Moschino, Moschino Couture
Located in Water Mill, NY
An extraordinary skirt and top set from Moschino Couture in grey with a touch of green jersey. They are simple pieces with intricate detailed at the front and back hemlines comprised...
1980s Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche silk floral wrap dress
By Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Located in CULEMBORG, GE
This figure flattering, silk, wrap-dress by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche from 1980* has a beautiful multicolor floral print. The pink, orange and purple flowers surrounded by green leafs are set on a black ground. At the neck, there is an interior tie to close up above the bust. The inside is lined around the shoulders and it comes with a matching sash stitched on the back. Taking a closer look at the Jabot-style collar and ruffled sleeves covered in pink and orange stripes it shows how beautifully constructed Yves Saint Laurent's ready-to-wear items where made. The vivid colors and combination of stripes and flowers give the all together look a funky Parisienne touch: feminine, but rather cool with a touch of romance. The indicated size FR 38 corresponds to a contemporary size S but because of the two strategic placed hooks at the waist it is possible to adjust this dress and therefore it would also fit a size M (FR40). Item measurements (lying flat): Size: FR 38 Shoulders: 50 cm (sleeves incl.) Sleeves: 64 cm (from shoulder) Bust: 45 cm Waist: 35 up to 40 cm Hips: up to 60 cm Length: 100 cm up to 110 cm (back) Model Nieve wears a size S with a 1.80 meter length. All items I sell are being professionally cleaned, pressed and are odor free. We offer free shipping on all (international) orders. * Additional information: When I was gathering information about this lovely silk Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche floral wrap dress...
Alexander McQueen 2004 Collection Silk Americana Print Halter Backless Dress 38
By Alexander McQueen
Located in Montgomery, TX
Alexander McQueen Silk Halter High-Low *Americana* Print Dress S/S 2004 Deliverance Collection The collection was based on the narrative of the 1969 Sydney Pollack movie “They Shoot ...
Yumi Eto Silk Adjustable Parachute Jacket and Pant Suit
Located in Water Mill, NY
A beautiful black silk pant suit from Yumi Eto. The double breasted shawl collar jacket is gorgeous with matching fine inner adjustable straps which can be mo...
Alessandro Dell'Acqua New Silk Skirt and Top with Bead Trim
By Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous 2 piece black fine silk knit lace skirt and cardigan set from Alessandro Dell'Acqua. The long sleeve top buttons up front and at the hem has a sheer 3" panel of intricately pattern grey glass seed beads and silver sequins. There is a matching panel...
Issey Miyake 1990's Pleated Sculptural Ensemble Top Skirt Iridescent Teal
By Issey Miyake
Located in Berlin, BE
Fabulous ISSEY MIYAKE ensemble, sculptureal pleated set of top and skirt. Rare numbered Collectors pieces. Iridescent colour shimmering teal grean. Icionic Myake, vintage designer c...
1960s Colorful Polka Dot Vintage 60s Cotton Trapeze A - Line Mod Dress
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic mid 1960s cotton trapeze A-Line cotton dress! Features a mock neck with a flattering trapeze fit! hire background with vibrant colored polka dots throughout the entire dress. Pu...
NEW DVF Diane von Furstenberg Signature Silk Wrap Dress 6
By Diane von Furstenberg
Located in Switzerland, CH
Stunning Diane von Furstenberg Signature Print Dress Wonderful coral print with turquoise background Mid length Wrap style, adjustable Finest silk jersey 100% pure silk Rare piece. I...
Size: No tag, fits US 6-8 M
NEW John Galliano Black Crochet Knit Ruched Dress M
By John Galliano
Located in Switzerland, CH
An extremely luxurious JOHN GALLIANO piece that will last you for years Made of soft black knitted fabric Ruched details Fully lined with black soft fabric Dry clean only
Size: 2/4 Small
1970s CARDINALI green silk dress with velvet dots
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This 1970’s green Cardinali maxi dress is made of silk chiffon with irregular green velvet dots. The mocha lining shows thru the silk chiffon to create a wonderful texture, and the ...
1970s CARDINALI Black and Orange Tie dye Silk Chiffon Maxi Dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
1970s CARDINALI black and orange tie dye bohemian silk chiffon gown highlighted with gold stitching and sequins with voluminous sleeve. mock neck. very lo...
1960s Cardinali "Greco-Roman" Wool Cocktail Mini Dress w/ Beadwork Detail
By Cardinali
Located in Gresham, OR
A wonderful "Greco-Roman" styled 1960s Cardinali cream wool cocktail dress: Sleeveless with an A-line skirt and beading at waist, collar and bust. Lined.
Size: Not Marked- M-L
Cardinali Vintage 1960s Couture Mod Wool Shift Dress with Silk Lining
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Sparks, NV
From the closet full of deadstock Cardinali comes this exceptional textured wool shift dress with silk lining. The dress does not have the original tags attached but looks completely unworn. Designed by Marilyn Lewis, the Cardinali line was only around for 9 years and has become coveted by vintage dealers and collectors worldwide. Her line was worn by Marlo Thomas in the hit TV show "That Girl" and was seen on many high profile and celebrity socialites. Lewis used only imported fabrics from Italy and her pieces were some of the most expensive apparel being produced at the time. Her first collection sold at Saks 5th Ave from between $300- $2400 which translates to about $2000- $16,000 today. It is easy to see why in person as the construction is absolutely phenomenal. There is no stitch out...