Chanel Signet Rings

Fashion legend Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s sole fine jewelry collection included some of the most exciting and original works ever made — she loved costume jewelry but simply couldn’t resist designing with diamonds. Today, whether or not a given design happens to bear the house’s iconic logo, vintage Chanel bracelets, pendant necklaces, earrings and other accessories lend a bold touch to any ensemble.

Chanel established her business as a Paris hat shop in 1910 and started selling clothing in 1913. She introduced her costume jewelry in the 1920s, when the economy was roaring and fine jewelry was the main mode of adornment among her clients. Fearless about giving offense, Chanel proclaimed, “I love fakes because I find such jewelry provocative, and I find it disgraceful to walk around with millions of dollars around your neck, just because you are rich.”

Then, in 1932, in the midst of the Great Depression, Chanel dramatically switched gears and designed her first and only diamond jewelry collection, Bijoux de Diamants.

The lyrical and bold Chanel designs centered on five motifs: fringe, ribbons, feathers, the sun and stars. A dramatic diamond fringe headpiece was worn over the brow, while a fringe bracelet draped down the palm. A ribbon was tied in a bow at the front of a necklace and the top of a headband. These textile motifs linked the collection to the couturier’s clothes.

Even as rave reviews flowed in from the members of the press who attended the collection’s single showing, the International Diamond Corporation caved to the demands of the men in the French jewelry industry who forcefully expressed their firm belief that a fashion designer, and a female one at that, didn’t have the talent to make important jewels. At the same time, they were worried that Chanel’s diamond necklaces, brooches, bracelets and other creations would compete with their collections and cut into their profits. The pieces were broken up after the exhibition, and a planned London showing was canceled.

Afterward, Chanel never designed another diamond jewelry collection. Instead, she focused on costume and the demi-fine pieces she made in collaboration with Fulco di Verdura, when he worked at Chanel during the 1930s.

In 1993, the House of Chanel revived its fine jewelry business. Over the years, it has made near-exact renditions of the 1932 designs and imagined new silhouettes incorporating the original five motifs, as well as other themes beloved by Chanel, such as the lion, representing her Leo zodiac sign, and camellia flowers.

Find a range of vintage Chanel earrings, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.