Spanish fashion designer Mariano Fortuny was an innovator in the world of textile design. He drew on classical Greek tunics for his rich and interesting garments and worked with a revolutionary system for creating pleats. He designed a range of clothing for his couture house, and today, vintage Fortuny evening gowns, gemstone-colored day dresses, coats and accessories like drawstring bags are known for their fine craftsmanship and signature elegance.
Fortuny was a true artist who worked with beautiful fabrics as his medium of choice. Although he showed talent in painting, sculpting, photography and architecture at an early age, fashion was where he really shined.
Fortuny was born Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo in 1871 in Granada, into a family of artists. His father died when Fortuny was only three years old, and his mother moved the family to Paris. As a child, Fortuny was fond of experimenting and figuring out how things worked. He even dyed pieces of fabric from his family's textile collection, which had been amassed from shops around Europe.
In 1889, the family moved again, this time to Venice. Here, Fortuny found inspiration in the past, which would influence his future designs. Not long after, the young Fortuny set off to travel the continent. In 1897, he visited Paris and fell in love with a dressmaker named Henriette Negrin. She became his muse, his wife and his creative partner — Negrin worked with Fortuny on clothing designs and fabrics — and the two settled in the French capital.
A lifelong inventor, Fortuny began patenting his creations in 1901. By 1934, he had registered more than 20 patents. At the same time, his fashion career was taking off.
In 1907, he designed the Delphos gown with Negrin, which French novelist and essayist Marcel Proust described as "faithfully antique but markedly original." Fortuny had worked from his home until 1922 when increased demand required large-scale production. He opened a factory in Venice, where due to the scarcity of silk, he began experimenting with cotton.
In 1927, New York interior designer Elsie McNeill traveled to Paris to meet Fortuny and became his exclusive American distributor. She returned to the United States and introduced Fortuny's designs to New World audiences. Shops opened in Paris, New York and London. Toward the end of the 1930s, Fortuny returned to painting and stepped away from the busy fashion industry.
After Fortuny passed away in 1949, McNeill took over the label and continued running it until 1988, when it was purchased by the Riad family, who remain at the helm of Fortuny today.
On 1stDibs, find vintage Fortuny clothing and accessories.
Early 1920s Fortuny Delphos Gown in Black Silk Glass Beads & Belt AS FOUND
By Mariano Fortuny, Fortuny
Located in Gresham, OR
Early 1920s Fortuny Delphos Gown in Black Silk, Murano Glass Beads & Gold Stenciled Belt. AS FOUND CONDITION with original labels. Absolutely authentic early Mariano Fortuny gown fo...
Delphos Venezia Pleated Silk Gown
By Fortuny, Mariano Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
Delphos Venezia tea gown of signature peach silk hand pleating with hand applied Venetian glass bead trim on finely twisted cotton cord. Designed with a large dramatic Pierrot style ...
Mariano Fortuny Black Peplos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. The...
Mariano Fortuny Black Silk Peplos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with matte frosted colored glass beads threaded through the cordin...
Mariano Fortuny Shell Pink Silk Peplos
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated shell pink colored silk with silk cording along side seams ,shoulders , and tunic hem, and mat frosted colored glass beads threaded through the...
Mariano Fortuny Amythest Delphos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated amythest colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. Named after a Greek cla...
Mariano Fortuny Claret Delphos. Provenance Tina Chow
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated claret colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. The beads are amber glass with...
Mariano Fortuny Sienna Peplos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated sienna colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. The...
Mariano Fortuny Rare Shell Pink Long Sleeved Delphos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
Description: This dress is made of finely pleated shell pink colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. Named aft...
Mariano Fortuny Rare Shell Pink Long Sleeved Delphos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
Description: This dress is made of finely pleated shell pink colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording.
Mariano Fortuny Black Delphos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording.
Named after a ...
Mariano Fortuny Black Peplos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording.
...
Mariano Fortuny Claret Delphos. Provenance Tina Chow
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated claret colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. The beads are amber glass with...
Mariano Fortuny Amethyst Delphos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated amythest colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. Named after a Greek cla...
Mariano Fortuny Sienna Peplos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated sienna colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording.
...
Mariano Fortuny Black Silk Peplos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams,shoulders and tunic hem with matte frosted colored glass beads threaded through the cordin...
Loris Azzaro 1970s Silk Jersey Vintage Pink Empire Dress Gown
By Loris Azzaro
Located in San Diego, CA
Stunning vintage 1970s Loris Azzaro pink silk jersey gown! Beautiful bodice, with a draped, Grecian/Empire feel to the body. Zipper works great, just could not fit the dress form. In...
Oscar de la Renta 1990s Size 8 Blue + White Tie Dye Vintage Sleeveless 90s Dress
By Oscar De La Renta
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 1990s OSCAR DE LA RENTA blue and white tie dye print patchwork Size 8 cotton dress! Features a blue and white tie dye with an array of shades of blue throughout. Tiered fitted b...
Size: Small - Medium
Amazing 1970s Nautical Navy Blue + Gold Anchor Patch Vintage Jersey maxi Dress
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazing vintage 70s navy blue + gold anchor patch long sleeve jersey maxi dress! Perfect navy blue color matches anything, and is great all year. Gold anchor patch above left breast....
Circa 1960's cocktail dress in silver lurex and jewelry buttons Eres
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Circa 1960's cocktail dress in silver lurex and jewelry buttons. Silk and organza lining. SIZE M
Size: vintage 8; compare to size XS-S
Ceil Chapman Burgundy Velvet Quilted Metallic Brocade Day Dress - XS 1960s
By Ceil Chapman
Located in Tucson, AZ
Painfully good, from its rich color to its quilted skirt to its crisp A-line silhouette. The alluring keyhole neckline can be worn closed during the day and open at night for two dif...
2016 Chloe Runway Documented Rainbow Chiffon Maxi Dress
By Chloé
Located in London, GB
This flamboyant rainbow gown walked the runway as part of Chloé’s Spring 2016 collection. It was the standout look at number 24 and one of the most memor...
Size: 8 (Best Fits Modern Size 4)
Saks Fifth Avenue Little Black Dress With Rhinestone Buckles, 1960's
By Saks Fifth Avenue
Located in Atlanta, GA
Saks Fifth Avenue youthful 1960's mod version of a classic 'little black dress' in a black crepe fabric that appears to be silk with rhinestone embellishments in the form of faux clip buckles. The fabric is lined and hemmed with padded cording which also lines the neck. The sleeveless dress zips and hooks at the back with soft inverted pleats that add a little volume to the skirt while the bodice is fitted for a simple albeit sleek style. A wonderful vintage staple...
Pink Silk Dress Hand Beaded "Gatsby" Flapper Dress 1920s
Located in Wallkill, NY
They are getting harder to find, and even harder to find in wearable condition. This silk pink dream is all hand beaded. Stunning T back. Bugle beading around the neckline and arms. ...
Givenchy Yellow and Orange Plaid Halter Top and Skirt set, 1970s
By Givenchy
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage Givenchy Yellow, orange plaid cotton summer/vacation halter top and maxi skirt set. Fit size 4
Chanel set Pre-fall 2019
By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
CHANEL - (Made in France) Golden tweed coat/dress set with golden calfskin collar and sleeve lapels, with blue resin and golden metal beetle buttons. Golden calfskin belt with a resi...
EMILIO PUCCI c.1960's "Colletti" Print Multicolor Square Sleeveless Shift Dress
By Emilio Pucci
Located in Thiensville, WI
EMILIO PUCCI c.1960's "Colletti" Print Multicolor Square Sleeveless Shift Dress Circa: 1960’s Label(s): Emilio Pucci; Exclusively for Saks Fifth Avenue Designer: Emilio Pucci Style...
Roberto Cavalli S/S 2003 Runway Floral Print Silk Chiffon Metallic Plunge Dress
By Roberto Cavalli
Located in BELLEVUE HILL, NSW
Dating to the S/S 2003 collection, this extraordinary Roberto Cavalli mainline dress is crafted in stretchy spandex with a double-layered silk chiffon plunge bodice, secured with gol...
Fortuny Rose Silk Delphos Gown with Gold Stenciled Belt and Venetian Glass Beads
By Mariano Fortuny, Fortuny
Located in New Hope, PA
A Fortuny Delphos with the original belt is an exceedingly rare vintage couture find. This example is in very good condition and it is a very wearable dress. The pleats are tight, al...
Mariano Fortuny Pleated Coral Silk "Delphos" Gown, c.1920s.
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
Mariano Fortuny Pleated Coral Silk "Delphos" Gown, c.1920s. Coral pleated silk 'Delphos' gown featuring stamped gold silk belt from Mariano Fortuny dating to the 1920's. Adjustable d...
Size: One size fits most
Mariano Fortuny Rare Early Black Silk Delphos with Narrow Cord Bodice Wrap
By Fortuny, Mariano Fortuny
Located in New Hope, PA
This is an early Delphos design, known as a Chiton, from Mariano Fortuny which features a low V neckline, open laced sleeves and a thin black cord which adjusts the neckline and then wraps under the bust and around the waist. It can be tied in front or back and I have photographed it both ways. It is a more form fitting silhouette than the traditional delphos or peplos. Blue Venetian glass beads accent the sleeve opening and the cord tie. There is a multi color bead at the center front to hold the cord in place. The dress has nice tight pleats and it bears the Fortuny label attached to the left shoulder seam. It is a very early version of the Delphos and was purchased at Sotheby's in the early 1980's. It is a great dress to collect or to wear. It is in very good condition and looks fabulous when worn but it does have a few issues. There are some very tiny pinholes alongside the center back seam of the bodice.and there are a few small breaks in the skirt near the hemline in the back. One of the blue beads on the cord is chipped. I do not feel that these are serious issues for this one hundred year old dress...
1920's MARIANO FORTUNY pleated black silk DELPHOS gown
By Mariano Fortuny, Fortuny
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Phenomenal jet black pleated silk 'Delphos' gown with Venetian striped glass beads and stamped gold silk belt from Mariano Fortuny dating to the 1920's. Adjustable drawstring at neck...
Mariano Fortuny Black Delphos Gown
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
This dress is made of finely pleated black colored silk with silk cording along side seams, and multicolored glass beads threaded through the cording. Named after a Greek classi...
Fortuny Delphos
By Fortuny
Located in New Hope, PA
A pristine Fortuny Delphos with the original belt and the original box is an exceedingly rare vintage couture find. This example is in such amazing condition that it appears unworn. ...
Fortuny Delphos
By Fortuny
Located in New Hope, PA
A pristine Fortuny Delphos with the original belt and the original round box is an exceedingly rare vintage couture find. This example is in such amazing condition that it appears un...
Mariano Fortuny Shell Pink Delphos
By Fortuny
Located in Riverdale, NY
Mariano Fortuny shell pink pleated silk Delphos gown circa 1930. Striated white murano glass bead and silk cord trimmed down side seams and armhole. Silk belt stencilled in silver fo...
Size: One Size
Fortuny Peplos Dress and Belt
By Fortuny
Located in New Hope, PA
Rare and stunning, this blue Fortuny Peplos is in amazing condition. There are no spots or stains anywhere!
The dress has a drawstring neckline, ...
Size: One Size
Fortuny Delphos Dress and Velvet Jacket
By Fortuny
Located in New Hope, PA
This is a stunning ensemble; a Fortuny black silk Delphos gown and a black silk velvet jacket, stenciled in silver and gold that was designed by Fortuny as well.
The dress is ...
Mariano Fortuny Sage Green Pleated Silk Delphos Gown
By Fortuny, Mariano Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
Mariano Fortuny sage green pleated silk Delphos gown circa 1930. Venetian glass beads in ochre with rust and brown stripes and silk cord trim down the side seams and armholes.
...
Size: all
Mariano Fortuny Shell Pink Delphos
By Fortuny
Located in New York, NY
Mariano Fortuny shell pink pleated silk Delphos gown circa 1930. Striated white murano glass bead and silk cord trimmed down side seams and armhole. Silk belt stencilled in silver fo...