Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
Maison Martin Margiela Vintage Circa 2012 White Cotton Slip On Maxi Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Maison Martin Margiela women's collection line circa Spring Summer 2012 (Matthieu Blazy era) white ribbed cotton maxi slip on dress.In 2011, Matthieu Blazy became a designer at Maiso...
Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture S/S 2017 John Galliano Tule dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in PARIS, FR
Maison Margiela Artisanal Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2017 by John Galliano. An extraordinary museum-quality couture creation from one of John Galliano's most celebrated collections ...
unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
This is an intentionally “crushed” sheer black skirt from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1999 collection. Made from lightweight chiffon, the skirt h...
Martin Margiela New Strapless Color Block Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous light taupe silk and black net strapless gown from Martin Margiela top line collection. It falls in an A line from top to hem- taupe down to the mid calf then black netti...
Brown silk knit dress MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Brown silk knit dress. Knit composition: 90% silk, 8% rayon, 2% polyester. Jersey tank top lining on the top front only. SIZE L / NEW WITH TAG
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA early 90's iconic and rare knitted turtleneck mini dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Early 90's iconic and rare short sleeve turtleneck mini dress with anatomical stitchings by Maison Martin Margiela Adjustable strings on the inside Manufactured by FUZZI S.P.A. 100% ...
Maison Martin Margiela 2011 Black Dress with Tan Leather Sleeves
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Maison Martin Margiela Black Dress with Tan Leather Sleeves. Dress is in excellent condition ...except one pen mark on the leather sleeve photogr...
Margiela Bat Wing Silk Crepe Tunic
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Great Margiela batwing silk crepe tunic/top with tonal blue abstract figurals on navy ground. Boat neckline. Early collection.
Excellent condition
Length: 29"
Maison Martin Margiela 2015 Robe FR38 Black Silk Daisy Printed Dress UK10 US8
By Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiella
Located in PARIS, FR
Maison Martin Margiela dress SS2015 collection (by Martin Margiela) in light black silk crepe with flower print in shades of white and yellow, round neck closed by 4 fabric-covered b...
Martin Margiela Lighting Skyline Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Martin Margiela Lighting Skyline Dress in black rayon/cotton with printed lightening erupting over an urban skyline. Simple T shirt lines, from the MM6...
Maison Martin Margiela Eagle Print Long Sleeve Sweatshirt Novelty Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazing MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA eagle print long sleeve sweatshirt dress!!! Bald eagle print on the left side with vibrant colors of green, yellow, pu...
Maison Margiela by John Galliano F/W 2012 Fake Sleeves Brown Turtleneck Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela, John Galliano
Located in Caserta, IT
- Designed by John Galliano - Brown Turtleneck Wool Dress - Fake sleeves - High neckline - Midi Length - Excellent condition: Just missing brand tag - Made in Italy - Size: Fits like...
Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2000 Artisanal Paneled Oversized Shirt/Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Our Maison Martin Margiela oversized shirt/dress, screams early 2000's minimalism with a colorful flair. Maison Martin Margiela (now Maison Margiela) is a Parisian luxury fashion ho...
Maison Martin Margiela Trompe L'oeil Photo Print Brown Floral Maxi Dress 1999
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Maison Martin Margiela iconic tromp l'oeil dress featuring a sepia-toned photo print of a vintage dress printed on a simple mesh ca...
Maison Margiela MM4 Silk Knit Maxi Dress Taupe Grey size S V-neck Long sleeve
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Maison Margiela MM4 Silk Knit Maxi Dress Taupe Grey Approx size S small (see measurements below) Experience the pinnacle of Quiet Luxury with this authentic Maison Margiela MM4 sil...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2014 black deconstructed raw edge cut sleeve dress FR38 M
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2014 black deconstructed raw edge cut sleeve dress FR38 M Reference: CAWG/A00304 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collection: 2014 Material: Po...
Maison Martin Margiela Women's Viscose Little Black Dress with Trim
By Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiella
Located in Port Hope, ON
Lovely viscose dress with contrasting cotton trim at the v-neck and cuffs. This 3/4 sleeved dress is simple but elegant with a slight cocoon shape bottom. There is also the design...
MARGIELA Black Rayon Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage Margiela Black Rayon dress with interesting sleeves. Marked size 40 Bust: 34 inch / Waist 26 inch - 32 inch / hip 36 inch / Dress Length: 43 ...
Maison Margiela White Cotton Midi Dress, Size 44
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
- Crew neckline - Sleeveless style - Mid length - Silver tone real zip closure - Features side cut out with polka dot and striped pattern detail - Made in Italy
Maison Martin Margiela F/W 2005 'Inside Out' Black silk dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
- Maison Martin Margiela black silk dress - Designed by Martin Margiela - Fall-Winter 2005 'Inside Out' - The seams and darts are left unfinished on the outside, - giving the illusi...
Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2007 Navy Star Print Draped Dress – IT42 (F
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
From Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2007 collection, this navy sleeveless dress features a delicate scattered star print on a fluid silk-blend fabric. The front is softly gathered and dra...
Maison Martin Marglela Fully-Lined Hooded Cowl Sleeveless Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Maison Martin Marglela fully lined hooded large cowl-neck sleeveless dress in steel-blue measures 26 1/2" in front, 30" in back. The underarm circumference measures 39", underarm-to-...
Maison Margiela by John Galliano S/S 2018 Double Layered Blazer Dress
By John Galliano, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Caserta, IT
- Designed by John Galliano - Spring Summer 2018 Collection - Double Layered Reconstructed Blazer Dress - First Layer it's a black blazer - Button closure - Two pockets - Second laye...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size S Black Viscose / Wool Sweater Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA sweater dress comes in a black viscose / wool featuring long sleeves and a front button closure detail. Made in Italy.Very Good Pre-Owned Condition. Marked: ...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Size 4 Raspberry Viscose Blend Fitted Cocktail Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Francisco, CA
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA cocktail dress comes in a raspberry viscose blend featuring a ribbed panel design, long sleeves, and a side zipper closure. Made in Italy. Very Good Pre-Owned ...
Maison Martin Margiela Black Oversized Maxi Sweater Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Maison Martin Margiela black sleeveless maxi sweater dress featuring a v-neckline and crinkle appearance. Maison Martin Margiela S...
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal F/W 2003 Sleeveless Black Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Sold by Skof.Archive - Fall Winter 2003 - Artisanal Collection - Sleeveless Reconstructed Black Vest - Button Closure - Lace Belt - Multilayered Bott...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2001 Vintage cotton deconstructed bubble hem mini dress
By Maison Martin Margiela, Maiscon Martin Margiella
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2001 Vintage black cotton deconstructed ruched bubble hem mini dress M Reference: DYTG/A00071 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Mar...
Martin Margiela S/S 2006 Set: Black Lined Top and Skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Sold by Skof.Archive - Spring Summer 2006 - Black Lined Top and Skirt - Thin spaghetti straps on the top with silver/metallic beaded trim along neckli...
Maison Martin Margiela Satin Car Seat Collection Dress 2006
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Maison Martin Margiela black satin dress with a v neckline that is decorated with studs, an unlet hem with studs, and inspired by car seat...
Maison Margiela Paris Navy Maxi Dress, Size 36
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
- Shine finish - Knit detail on the neckline - Loose fit - 3/4 sleeve length - Made in Italy
Martin Margiela Spring Summer 1996 Vintage Trompe L'oeil Silk Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring–Summer 1996 collection is known for its playful use of trompe-l’œil, a technique that creates visual illusions. In this collection, he printed images ...
Maison Margiela by John Galliano S/S 2019 White Square dress
By Maison Martin Margiela, John Galliano
Located in Caserta, IT
- Designed by John Galliano - Spring Summer 2019 - White Square dress - Square neckline - Sleeveless - Zipper closure on the back - Very good condition - Made in Italy - Size: FR 36 ...
MAISON MARGIELA Line 6 Vintage black cotton carpenter midi dress IT38 XS
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA Line 6 Vintage black cotton carpenter midi dress IT38 XS Reference: PYCN/A00128 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collection: Line 6 Material: Cotton C...
MM4 Margiela 2008 Robe Cuir FR38 Black leather shirt dress tunique UK10 US8
By Maison Martin Margiela, Martin Margiella
Located in PARIS, FR
Maison Martin Margiela line 4 dress between shirt dress and tunic, oversized build, straight cut, slit hem on each side, shirt collar and neckline with...
Martin Margiela Silk and Lambkin Leather Glove Dress Rare New!
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Martin Margiela dress fashioned of black silk crepe with soft lambskin saddle color leather at shoulders with attached black leather zipper long gloves. Asymmetricallyl draped and pl...
Maison Margiela Light Blue Button Down Dress, Size XS
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
- Collar detail - Button down closure - Side pocket - Striped design detail - Mid length - Oversized fit
Maison Martin Margiela Gray Wool Dress With Wide Neckline F/W 1996
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is thrilled to offer a vintage minimalist Maison Martin Margiela gray wool dress with a wide neckline from the 2000s, featuring short sleeves, a deep wide V-neck...
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal Satin & Wool Panel Dress 2002
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Maison Martin Margiela artisanal reconstructed sleeveless dress featuring two black satin fabric panels at the torso and hem, a cen...