Paul Bablet Jewelry

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Antique and vintage cluster rings are timeless accessories. While they might have been considered more popular in certain eras than in others, they’re versatile and belong in any jewelry box.

Featuring a diamond or other central gemstone surrounded by smaller stones, the cluster rings’ distinguished look makes them a popular choice for engagement rings or, for a fancy night out, an accent piece for jewelry lovers everywhere.

The style of cluster rings has changed over time even if the defining attributes have remained intact.

Georgian-era jewelry — named for the monarchies of the four King Georges — features cluster rings that are often characterized by a grouping of central stones into rose-like shapes. (The stones are set off by the setting’s blackened metal.) Diamonds came into fashion during the late Victorian period, and late Victorian cluster rings were most often set in yellow gold. Jewelers of the Art Deco period embraced geometric shapes, and Art Deco cluster rings feature emeralds, sapphires and other colorful stones.

Cluster rings for future brides have been in and out of the spotlight, but cluster-style engagement rings have been experiencing a consistent revival of sorts since at least 2011, when Kate Middleton began wearing Princess Diana’s sapphire and diamond ring, which was made by Garrard in the 1980s. For your special day, whether you prefer vintage engagement rings or contemporary pieces, a cluster ring can deliver some sparkle if a diamond solitaire is out of your budget. (See our engagement ring buying guide for insight and expert tips to help you find the perfect ring.)

On 1stDibs, find many ruby cluster rings, gold cluster rings and an extraordinary range of other antique and vintage rings today.