Issey Miyake pinstripe windbreaker coat, c. 1990s
View Similar Items
Issey Miyake pinstripe windbreaker coat, c. 1990s
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: 3 (JP)
- Place of Origin:Japan
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14021188102
Issey Miyake
From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- Vivienne Westwood brown shearling coat dress, fw 1992By Vivienne WestwoodLocated in London, GBVivienne Westwood brown shearling coat dress. High neck, signature Westwood Orb buttons, fitted waist and flared skirt. Fall-Winter 1992Category
1990s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Azzedine Alaia black varnished pony hair trench coat, fw 2014By Azzedine AlaïaLocated in London, GBPresenting an exceptional Azzedine Alaia trench coat, a true collector's gem from the autumn-winter 2014 collection. This trench coat showcases the l...Category
2010s French Coats and Outerwear
- Vivienne Westwood brown wool and velvet swing coat, fw 1990By Vivienne WestwoodLocated in London, GBVivienne Westwood brown wool swing coat with velvet. Oversized inverted lapels, large perspex Orb button and voluminous back panel. Portrait, Fall-Winter 1990Category
1990s British Coats and Outerwear
- Martin Margiela dark grey wool coat with an elongated hood-collar, fw 2005By Maison Martin MargielaLocated in London, GBMartin Margiela dark grey wool coat with an elongated hood-collar Fall-Winter 2005Category
Early 2000s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Martin Margiela black wool coat with exaggerated collar, fw 1996By Maison Martin MargielaLocated in London, GBIntroducing an iconic Maison Martin Margiela black wool oversized coat from the Autumn-Winter 1996 collection. This coat exemplifies the designer's avant-garde approach to fashion an...Category
1990s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Yohji Yamamoto black wool gabardine coat with exaggerated pockets, fw 2004By Yohji YamamotoLocated in London, GBYohji Yamamoto; black wool gabardine maxi coat with exaggerated external flap pockets and belt buckle fastenings on waist and neck. Fall-Winter 2004 - The same coat is in the...Category
Early 2000s Japanese Coats and Outerwear
- 1920S Black Silk Satin Coat Trimmed In Shaggy FurLocated in New York, NY1920S Black Silk Satin Coat Trimmed In Shaggy FurCategory
1920s Car Coats
- Dark Brown Ranch Mink Stole with Fringe and PocketsLocated in Los Angeles, CAThis mink stole is in a dark brown ranch color. The garment can be worn in a variety of ways and features two pockets, as well as a hook and eye fastening. In excellent condition. M...Category
20th Century American Stoles
- 1960S Chocolate Brown Sheer Rayon Blend Burnout Velvet Long Sleeve Dress With GLocated in New York, NY1960S Chocolate Brown Sheer Rayon Blend Burnout Velvet Long Sleeve Dress With Gold Rhinestone ButtonsCategory
1960s Car Coats
- Hardy Amies 'New Look' or 'Wasp Waist' Black Wool Coat with Velvet Trim, SmallBy Hardy AmiesLocated in Los Angeles, CAThis coat is a rare piece representing the 'NEW LOOK' that originated in Paris by The House of Dior in 1947 shortly after WWII. The 'NEW LOOK' or 'Wasp Waist' was followed shortly ...Category
20th Century English Coats and Outerwear
- Silver Fox Jacket with Teal and Yellow Multicolor Highlights Size S M LLocated in Los Angeles, CAThis jacket is composed of silver fox with variations of yellow and teal throughout. There are center front closures. In excellent condition. **Please cross-reference measureme...Category
20th Century Coats and Outerwear
- 1940S Navy, Lime Green & Purple Rayon Floral Printed Dress With Taffeta HemLocated in New York, NY1940S Navy, Lime Green & Purple Rayon Floral Printed Dress With Taffeta HemCategory
1940s Car Coats
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.
Vivienne Westwood’s Punk Spirit Lives On in This ’90s Tartan Ensemble
The shorts suit in a mash-up of patterns with an asymmetrical cut speaks to the designer’s rebellious spirit.