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Yves Saint Laurent Tom Ford 1stYear Draped CutOut Overlay Silk Maxi Dress SS2001

About the Item

For his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche while also creative director at Gucci, Tom Ford designed this Spring/Summer 2001 black two-layer peek-a-boo delphos-silhouette draping evening gown. It features a plunging V-neck and ruched center-seams that support side-draped cut-out opaque panels. For discrete see-through effects under the draping, it overlays a fully attached black semi-transparent figure-hugging stretch-silk maxi dress. At this turning point in fashion history, French founder Saint Laurent (1936-2008) planned to retire by early 2002 with his last haute-couture collection--after selling his Parisian business to luxury conglomerates, which had named American Ford its director. Crystalizing the iconic brand's sex appeal at his first YSL show, Ford debuted in Paris tuxedo-inspired womenswear in mostly black or white, which included this dress that conjures an ancient Greek curvy sculpture or a 20th-Century bodycon Mariano Fortuny gown. The collection enabled Ford to win the Council Of Fashion Designers of America Womenswear Award for 2001 Designer Of The Year, while he had also created collections for Gucci Group where he had gained fame over the decade. Of note, the departing French founder was not enthusiastic about the replacement designer's meteoric creative and financial impact, which Vogue reported turned "the near-bankrupt brand into a multibillion-dollar powerhouse." Made in France, this French-size-36 formal gown (which will stretch for a larger size) reinterpreted a few of the masculine elements of Saint Laurent, while maintaining the powerful "le Smoking" look that he introduced to womenswear in 1966. Around the plunging neckline that reveals lots of skin, ruched horizontally-draped viscose panels are joined only at the center of the overlay's front and back for bold vertical lines rising from the floor like tuxedo trousers. With elongating draping on both sides of the entire dress, the curvaceous panels suggest a more voluptuous, yet svelte, figure. The upside-down Mandarin-collar shape at the bottom of the maxi dress is a nod to the 1977 Chinese-art-influenced haute-couture collection of Saint Laurent. Yet the black semi-sheer stretch-silk underlay, which fully lines the pull-over dress and comfortably shapes the body, is pure Tom Ford. In contrast to the rippled panels, a smooth silhouette can be glimpsed in the discreetly located gaps, which makes the gown even more provocative. Remarkably, this gown can be worn a second way to appear different with draping cap-sleeves and a less voluminous bust (see single photo with view of front). When slipping it on overhead from the bottom of the dress, the arms can penetrate the top gap of the draping panels on the openwork overlay to enable two of them to drape from the shoulders instead of underneath. For a comparison of increasing value, a 1stDibs listing for a later-dated similar black stretch-silk long gown by Tom Ford for Gucci from Fall/Winter 2003 in excellent condition sold for $14,200. From Ford's Yves Saint Laurent/Rive Gauche collection from that same season and year, a red cut-out gown maxi-dress---in merely good condition--sold for $12,000 on 1stDibs.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: FR36 with stretch (EU)Shoulder to Hem: 22.45 in (57 cm)
  • Style:
    Delphos ancient Greek statues (In the Style Of)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Material Notes:
    Given construction with little restriction, the stretch-silk dress will also fit a larger size.
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218135972