1950s Rare Ceil Chapman Dress & Coat

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Every once in a while in this business you get something that is truly magical. This early 1950s set is just that! I have never seen a better piece by Chapman then this set and I have seen a lot of her designs! This is an early 1950s piece and you can see the heavy Dior New Look influence on it. The coat is cut extremely similar to the couture 1954 Dior I recently sold to a private collector. And the dress is as exquisitely made as some of the couture dress from this time period I have had. Before I even begin to delve into the cut I must talk about the fabric. It s a cut velvet that hose upper most layer has been painted in a deep olive! The base is a pale cream with a green tinge and it has a subtle color changing hue to it! It literally changes tone as you move it! I honestly have never seen a more amazing an unusual fabric in my entire time of dealing in vintage! It is truly special! The coat is a loose cut, voluminous draped affair constructed entirely of that painted and cut velvet and then lined in an olive silk to match the sash of the dress. It has short cuffed sleeves and deep shawl collar. The dress has a sculpted and full skirt that nips into a silk sashed waist. The front is cut high and square across the neck, with a dipped V back, You can see the future infamous draping the Ceil employs through the detailing on the front skirt. Exceptional and in excellent, appears unworn condition.

Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: open
Waist & Hips: open
Length: 41” from neck to bottom hem

Bust: to 18” flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5” flat across the back from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 14.5” from shoulder to waist
Skirt: 25" from waist to hem

The dress is fully lined in a hand set green silk through the bodice. The skirt is backed with dressmakers paper and then there is an interior lining of cream rayon - parts of which are also backed with dressmakers paper and parts of which have tulle added so it creates and keeps the shape. The coat is lined in the same green silk that also hand finished. The collar has has same dressmakers paper worked inside so it holds its shape. It closes with a large fabric covered button at the neck. The dress closes with a hand set, back painted metal zipper. Ribbon edged finished seams inside and high end construction. Only the dress is labeled.

Note that I am loathe to separate this rare set so priced it as a combined piece - Individually each would be priced more then the combined price!

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML (2-small waisted and busted6)
Ceil Chapman
Marked Size
XS-SML (2-small waisted and bust
Dealer Location
Toronto, Canada
Number of Items
Reference Number
Shrimpton Couture
Toronto ON M5V 2M9
(647) 559-2223
1stdibs Dealer since 2010 Located in Toronto, ON
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