Margiela grey wool Miss Deanna bias cut zipper sweater vest, fw 1998
View Similar Items
Margiela grey wool Miss Deanna bias cut zipper sweater vest, fw 1998
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Small (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14028512991
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- Comme des Garçons grey jersey deconstructed sweater dress, fw 1998By Comme des GarçonsLocated in London, GBComme des Garçons grey jersey deconstructed sweater dress with hook and eye fastenings and various shaped panels Fall-Winter 1998Category
1990s French Day Dresses
- Men's Yohji Yamamoto grey wool four-sleeved knitted sweater, fw 1992By Yohji YamamotoLocated in London, GB▪ Yohji Yamamoto grey knitted turtleneck sweater ▪ 100% Wool ▪ Four sleeves (two tying around the waist) ▪ Size Medium ▪ Fall-Winter 1992Category
1990s Japanese Sweaters
- Gianni Versace rose gold Oroton metal mesh vest, fw 1994By Gianni VersaceLocated in London, GB▪ Gianni Versace rose gold Oroton vest ▪ 100% Metal ▪ Back zip fastening ▪ IT 42 - FR 38 - UK 10 - US 6 ▪ Fall-Winter 1994Category
1990s Italian Sweaters
- Martin Margiela grey knitted wool oversized sweater, fw 1998By Maison Martin MargielaLocated in London, GBPresenting an archival Martin Margiela grey knitted wool v-neck oversized sweater from the Autumn-Winter 1998 collection, a true testament to the brand's boundary-pushing creativity. This exceptional piece reflects Margiela's artistry and commitment to challenging conventional norms in the world of fashion. The sweater is coated in a distinctive plastic resin, deliberately designed to crack with age and use, adding a unique and captivating dimension to the garment. This innovative technique embraces the concept of evolution and transformation, encapsulating the spirit of Martin Margiela's thought-provoking designs. The v-neck and oversized silhouette further emphasize the brand's avant-garde aesthetics, exuding an air of nonchalant elegance and unconventional charm. Featured in Mark...Category
1990s French Sweaters
- Men's Matsuda grey striped knitted cotton shirt sweater, ss 1995By Mitsuhiro MatsudaLocated in London, GB▪ Men's Matsuda grey striped shirt sweater ▪ 100% Cotton ▪ Deconstructed design ▪ Knitted sweater at top panel ▪ Button up shirt at bottom panel ▪ Size Large ▪ Spring-Summer 1995Category
1990s Japanese Sweaters
- Gianfranco Ferre black astrakhan fur bodysuit, fw 1999By Gianfranco FerréLocated in London, GB▪ Gianfranco Ferre black astrakhan fur bodysuit ▪ High neck with long fur detail ▪ Power-mesh bodysuit ▪ Astrakhan fur bodice ▪ Zip fastening ▪ IT 4...Category
1990s Italian Bodysuits
- HERMES white cotton & cashmere Jacquard Cardigan Sweater 38 SBy HermèsLocated in Zürich, CHHermès light knit cardigan in clay cotton (85%) cashmere (15%) with a strap-pattern, round neckline, straight fit, ribbed cuff and hem. Unlined. Closes with button fastening in the f...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Cardigans
- Lucien Pellat-Finet Top Cashmere and Silk M Gorgeous Print Muted Colours MBy Lucien Pellat FinetLocated in Miami, FLGuaranteed authentic Lucien Pellat-Finet buttery soft top. Long sleeve, round neck top. Brown and black faint stripe with a beautiful pattern that looks textured. Fabric is cashmer...Category
2010s French Blouses
- Alexander McQueen grey wool & cashmere PEPLUM Sweater XSBy Alexander McQueenLocated in Zürich, CHAlexander McQueen crew-neck sweater in taupe wool (70%) and cashmere (30%) with a flared bottom and two slits on the side. Has been worn and is in excellent condition. Tag Size XS ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Pullovers
- Marc by Marc Jacobs grey cachemire cardigan sweaterBy Marc by Marc JacobsLocated in Capri, ITMarc by Marc Jacobs grey cachemire cardigan sweater Size MCategory
1990s Cardigans
- PAROSH laminated cardigan - sweaterLocated in Capri, ITPAROSH laminated cardigan - sweater totally made in italy in size LCategory
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Sweaters
- 1970S Blue & White Striped Cotton Knit Authentic French Mariner SweaterLocated in New York, NY1970S Blue & White Striped Cotton Knit Authentic French Mariner SweaterCategory
1970s Pullovers
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.