Hand-Sewn Apron with Hand-Sewn Stars

13 hand sewn stars in a circular version of what is known as the 3rd Maryland pattern, with an especially large center star, a flag with especially tiny scale among those with pieced-and-sewn construction, exceptionally rare, made circa 1890: 13 star flags have been flown throughout our nation’s history for a variety of purposes. They were hoisted at patriotic events, including Lafayette’s visit in 1824-25, the celebration of the centennial of American independence in 1876, and the sesquicentennial in 1926. They were displayed during the Civil War, to reference past struggles for American liberty and victory over oppression, and were used by 19th century politicians while campaigning for the same reason. As the number of stars grew with the addition of new states, it became more and more difficult to fit their full complement on a small flag. The stars would, by necessity, have to become smaller, which made it more and more difficult to view them from a distance as individual objects. The fear was that too many of them close together would become as one white mass and distort the ability to identify American ships on the open seas. Keeping the count low allowed for better visibility. For this reason the U.S. Navy flew 13 star flags on small boats. Some private ship owners mirrored this practice and flew 13 star flags during the same period as the Navy. Flag experts disagree about the precisely when the Navy began to revert to 13 stars and other low counts. Some feel that the use of 13 star flags never stopped, which seems to be supported by depictions of ships in period artwork. This was, of course, the original number of stars on the first American national flag, by way of the First Flag Act of 1777, and equal to the number of original colonies that became states. Any American flag that has previously been official remains so according to the flag acts, so it remains perfectly acceptable to fly 13 star flags today by way of congressional law. Since there was no official star configuration until the 20th century (1912 specifically, beginning with the 48 star count), the stars on 13 star flags may appear in any one of a host of configurations. Some of these are more rare and desirable than others. The stars of this particular flag are arranged in what has come to be known as the "3rd Maryland Pattern." This configuration, whether oval or circular, is appreciated both for its visual appeal and the scarcity of its use. a circular wreath of 12 with a single star in the center. The name comes from a flag that resides at the Maryland State Capitol in Annapolis, long thought to have been present with General Daniel Morgan at the Battle of Cowpens in 1781. According to legend, the flag was supposed to have been carried by Color Sergeant William Batchelor of the 3rd Maryland Light Infantry and was donated to the State of Maryland by Batchelor's descendants. The story was disproved in the 1970's, however, following an examination by the late flag expert Grace Rogers Cooper of the Smithsonian, who discovered that the Cowpens flag was, at the earliest, of Mexican War...

34 Upside-down, Hand-sewn Stars In A Notched Configuration, On An Antique American Flag Of The Civil War Period, With A Beautiful And Highly Unusual Jacquard Weave Binding, And In A Tiny Scale Among Its Counterparts, Reflects The Addition Of Kansas As The 34th State, 1861-1863 34 star American national flag with a number of interesting and desirable features. Chief among these is the scale of the flag among counterparts of the period. At just three by four feet, its size is absolutely tiny among those with pieced-and-sewn construction. During the 19th century, sewn flags (as opposed to those that were printed on cloth) were typically eight feet long and larger. This is because they were important in their function as signals, meaning that they needed to be seen and recognized from great distance. A flag that was six feet in length was considered small and production of flags smaller than this was extremely limited. Even infantry battle flags, carried on foot, were approximately six by six and-one-half feet, about the size of an average quilt of the same period. It wasn't until the 1890’s that manufacturers began to produce smaller sewn flags in great quantity. The stars of the flag are arranged in justified lineal rows, the first of which contains one fewer star. This results in what I call a “notched” design, leaving one space open for the addition of another star. The blank space leaves little doubt that the maker of the flag assumed that another Western Territory would soon acquire statehood, or that West Virginia might soon break free from Virginia, which occurred in June of 1863. Note how the stars are oriented so that they are upside-down on their vertical axis, with two points up instead of one. No one knows if this positioning bore any particular meaning. Both modern notions of the correct orientation of a star, and the present official design of the American flag, dictate that the stars are supposed to have one point up. Since there was no official design for the flag until 1912, however, it may simply be that the maker of the flag did not consider any particular position to be right-side-up or upside-down. In the mid-19th century, it was not uncommon to see stars pointing any which way, varied throughout whatever arrangement was chosen. Whatever the case may be, the feature present on this particular flag is unusual to the eye and notable in terms of its presentation. Made of cotton, the stars are hand-sewn and double-appliquéd (applied to both sides). The canton and stripes of the flag are made of wool bunting. Because blue wool bunting generally came in a width of 18", the canton was pieced from two lengths of fabric, joined by hand-stitching. The canton is joined to the striped field by hand-stitching. The stripes are pieced and hemmed by treadle stitching. Made of heavy, polished, jacquard weave linen, the binding of the flag is both exceptional from a textile connoisseur’s perspective and highly unusual. This is joined to the flag by treadle stitching. There are two brass grommets, one each at the top and bottom of the hoist, which are likewise especially unusual, in that they are both heavier than normal and intentionally hammered flat. I have seen this on only one other occasion in a Civil War flag...

Antique American flag with 13 hand-sewn stars in an extremely rare lineal configuration of 5-3-5, probably made with the intent of use by local militia or private outfitting of a vol...

13 HAND-SEWN STARS, IN AN OVAL VERSION OF THE 3RD MARYLAND PATTERN, ON AN ANTIQUE AMERICAN FLAG MADE IN THE PERIOD BETWEEN THE CIVIL WAR (1861-65) AND THE 1876 CENTENNIAL OF AMERICAN...

This Great framed Folk Art sham with 48star flag and ship ribbons is a great patriotic item. The top left corner as well as the bottom right corner are scraps of a 48 star linen flag and in between them are ribbons of ships names that are sewn together in a collage. The American ships span three centuries of ships ribbons, from late 19th century to present day ships. As well as the "USS Utah" which was sunk during the attack on Pearl Harbor. This great and proud sham is not only a great American item but is a Symbol of hope and unity throughout the ages. Serves better as a hanging Folk Art...

ENTIRELY HAND-SEWN ANTIQUE AMERICAN FLAG OF THE CIVIL WAR ERA, WITH 13 SINGLE-APPLIQUÉD STARS IN A 3-2-3-2-3 CONFIGURATION, IN A GREAT, SMALL SCALE AMONG ITS COUNTERPARTS, PROBABLY MADE IN NEW YORK CITY, SIGNED “GRÜNFILD” 13 star flags have been flown throughout our nation’s history for a variety of purposes. They were hoisted at patriotic events, including Lafayette’s final visit in 1824-25, the celebration of the centennial of American independence in 1876, and the sesquicentennial in 1926. They were displayed during the Civil War, to reference past struggles for American liberty and victory over oppression, and were used by 19th century politicians while campaigning for the same reason. As the number of stars grew with the addition of new states, it became more and more difficult to fit their full complement on a small flag. The stars would, by necessity, have to become smaller, which made it more and more difficult to view them from a distance as individual objects. The fear was that too many of them close together would become as one white mass and distort the ability to identify American ships on the open seas. Keeping the count low allowed for better visibility. For this reason the U.S. Navy flew 13 star flags on small boats. Some private ship owners mirrored this practice and flew 13 star flags during the same period as the Navy. Flag experts disagree about precisely when the Navy began to revert to 13 stars and other low counts. Some feel that the use of 13 star flags never stopped, which seems to be supported by depictions of ships in period artwork. This was, of course, the original number of stars on the first American national flag, by way of the First Flag Act of 1777, and equal to the number of original colonies that became states. Since there was no official star configuration until the 20th century (1912 specifically, beginning with the 48 star count), the stars on 13 star flags may appear in any one of a host of configurations. Made during the Civil War era, or shortly thereafter, the stars of this particular 13 star flag are arranged in a 3-2-3-2-3 pattern of lineal rows. This configuration appears to have been adopted by the Navy sometime toward war’s end, probably between 1864 and 1865. Afterwards it becomes the most common design across all known styles, for the balance of the 19th century through the first quarter of the 20th. Entirely hand-sewn, the stripes and canton of the flag are made of wool bunting. Note in particular the square profile of the canton, which makes it visually different from modern flags. The stars are made of cotton and are single-appliquéd. This means that they were applied to one side of the canton, then the blue fabric was cut from behind each star, folded over, and under-hemmed, so that one star could be viewed on both sides. I always find single-appliquéd stars more interesting, not only because they are evidence of a more difficult level of seam-work and stitching, but also because they are more visually intriguing. The two visible rows of hand-stitching emphasize their hand-sewn construction. This is one reason why single-appliquéd stars appeal to connoisseurs of early American textiles. While some flag enthusiasts have pointed to this as a means of conserving fabric, not having to cut and sew another star to the opposite side, others suggest that the real purpose was to make the flag lighter in weight. I believe it to have been a byproduct of both objectives. A length of faded, red, herringbone, twill cotton tape was stitched along the hoist end for reinforcement, in lieu of a more formal binding. To this, six lengths of cotton knit shoelace were added (one now absent) as a means of affixing the flag to a staff. This is generally the accepted method for a flag that is to be hand-carried. The cloth tape and ties both add substantially to the flag’s visual presentation. The name “Grünfild” was at some point hand-inscribed beneath the canton. It was common to mark flags in this fashion, during the 19th and early 20th centuries, to indicate ownership. An unusual name in America at this time, I believe that this likely belonged to the only man by this name that is recording as having served during the Civil War. Born around 1843, Morris Grünfild [a.k.a. Grünfield / Greenfield / Grünfildt] emigrated to the United States from Eastern Europe in 1854. A merchant tailor, who I believe may have been of Russian Jewish descent, he records himself as having been born in “Poland / Rus,” but may have moved to Austria in the interim, before traveling to the States. In May of 1861, Grünfild enlisted with the 31st New York Volunteer Infantry, at the rank of Private, in New York City, and was assigned to “C” Company. He served two years, mustering out in New York on June 4th, 1863. Around 1877, Grünfild joined Frank Head Post #16 of the New York State Grand Army of the Republic. The GAR was the primary veteran’s organization for the Union Army. He married a Russian woman from Philadelphia, had many children, and continued to work as a tailor into the 20th century, possibly selling both his services and clothes. Presuming that it was this Morris Grünfild who owned and marked the flag, it is hard to be sure just how he came into possession of it. The construction is actually typical of flags produced in New York, during this time frame and after, by the Annin Company. Known for single-appliqued stars, and for hand-sewing the stripes of smaller flags in particular, as well as for simply producing more, small, sewn flags than their competitors, the flag closely approximates signed, Annin-made examples that I have previously owned. It may, of course, be that Grünfild acquired the necessary bunting at the wharf and sewed the flag in the same fashion as Annin, but I don’t think so. I do, however, believe that it was he who added the herringbone tape and shoelace ties to a flag probably of Annin manufacture. It’s possible that the 31st NY Regiment used the flag as a flank marker or as camp colors. Though a little large in scale for either when compared to military regulations, the flag is small enough to have served effectively in either function. This unit appears not to have turned any colors in to the state at the war’s end, so likely they were taken home. The role that Grünfild played as a private in C Company is unknown. As a tailor, it’s conceivable that he may have played a role in the care or upkeep of flags, but no further information is available. The 31st NY was a very active unit. Recruited from Williamsburg (just over the Brooklyn Bridge) and Manhattan, it had several nicknames, including the “Montezuma Regiment,” “Baxter Light...