American Flag, Hand-Stitched

This is a coveted, patriotic silk scarf, issued by American designer Ann Hand. The silk scarf was issued in a deep navy and gold colorway. At center is an art...

48 STARS ON ANTIQUE AMERICAN FLAG WITH HAND-WRITTEN INSCRIPTIONS AND AN EMBROIDERED DATE OF APRIL 12TH, 1945, MOURNING THE DEATH OF PRESIDENT FRANKLIN DELANO ROOSEVELT: American national parade flag with 48 stars, printed on cotton, embellished with hand-written inscriptions and an embroidered date to commemorate the death of FDR on April 12th, 1945. “On this day in 1945, President Franklin D. Roosevelt died of a massive cerebral hemorrhage at his Warm Springs, Georgia, retreat at the age of 63. Roosevelt’s death in the final months of World War II was met with shock and grief throughout the Western world. Many Americans had no inkling of his decline in health. [He] had been president for more than 12 years, longer than any other person. He led the country through some of its greatest domestic and foreign crises to the impending defeat of Nazi Germany and within sight of Japan’s surrender...

ENTIRELY HAND-SEWN ANTIQUE AMERICAN FLAG OF THE CIVIL WAR ERA, WITH 13 SINGLE-APPLIQUÉD STARS IN A 3-2-3-2-3 CONFIGURATION, IN A GREAT, SMALL SCALE AMONG ITS COUNTERPARTS, PROBABLY MADE IN NEW YORK CITY, SIGNED “GRÜNFILD” 13 star flags have been flown throughout our nation’s history for a variety of purposes. They were hoisted at patriotic events, including Lafayette’s final visit in 1824-25, the celebration of the centennial of American independence in 1876, and the sesquicentennial in 1926. They were displayed during the Civil War, to reference past struggles for American liberty and victory over oppression, and were used by 19th century politicians while campaigning for the same reason. As the number of stars grew with the addition of new states, it became more and more difficult to fit their full complement on a small flag. The stars would, by necessity, have to become smaller, which made it more and more difficult to view them from a distance as individual objects. The fear was that too many of them close together would become as one white mass and distort the ability to identify American ships on the open seas. Keeping the count low allowed for better visibility. For this reason the U.S. Navy flew 13 star flags on small boats. Some private ship owners mirrored this practice and flew 13 star flags during the same period as the Navy. Flag experts disagree about precisely when the Navy began to revert to 13 stars and other low counts. Some feel that the use of 13 star flags never stopped, which seems to be supported by depictions of ships in period artwork. This was, of course, the original number of stars on the first American national flag, by way of the First Flag Act of 1777, and equal to the number of original colonies that became states. Since there was no official star configuration until the 20th century (1912 specifically, beginning with the 48 star count), the stars on 13 star flags may appear in any one of a host of configurations. Made during the Civil War era, or shortly thereafter, the stars of this particular 13 star flag are arranged in a 3-2-3-2-3 pattern of lineal rows. This configuration appears to have been adopted by the Navy sometime toward war’s end, probably between 1864 and 1865. Afterwards it becomes the most common design across all known styles, for the balance of the 19th century through the first quarter of the 20th. Entirely hand-sewn, the stripes and canton of the flag are made of wool bunting. Note in particular the square profile of the canton, which makes it visually different from modern flags. The stars are made of cotton and are single-appliquéd. This means that they were applied to one side of the canton, then the blue fabric was cut from behind each star, folded over, and under-hemmed, so that one star could be viewed on both sides. I always find single-appliquéd stars more interesting, not only because they are evidence of a more difficult level of seam-work and stitching, but also because they are more visually intriguing. The two visible rows of hand-stitching emphasize their hand-sewn construction. This is one reason why single-appliquéd stars appeal to connoisseurs of early American textiles. While some flag enthusiasts have pointed to this as a means of conserving fabric, not having to cut and sew another star to the opposite side, others suggest that the real purpose was to make the flag lighter in weight. I believe it to have been a byproduct of both objectives. A length of faded, red, herringbone, twill cotton tape was stitched along the hoist end for reinforcement, in lieu of a more formal binding. To this, six lengths of cotton knit shoelace were added (one now absent) as a means of affixing the flag to a staff. This is generally the accepted method for a flag that is to be hand-carried. The cloth tape and ties both add substantially to the flag’s visual presentation. The name “Grünfild” was at some point hand-inscribed beneath the canton. It was common to mark flags in this fashion, during the 19th and early 20th centuries, to indicate ownership. An unusual name in America at this time, I believe that this likely belonged to the only man by this name that is recording as having served during the Civil War. Born around 1843, Morris Grünfild [a.k.a. Grünfield / Greenfield / Grünfildt] emigrated to the United States from Eastern Europe in 1854. A merchant tailor, who I believe may have been of Russian Jewish descent, he records himself as having been born in “Poland / Rus,” but may have moved to Austria in the interim, before traveling to the States. In May of 1861, Grünfild enlisted with the 31st New York Volunteer Infantry, at the rank of Private, in New York City, and was assigned to “C” Company. He served two years, mustering out in New York on June 4th, 1863. Around 1877, Grünfild joined Frank Head Post #16 of the New York State Grand Army of the Republic. The GAR was the primary veteran’s organization for the Union Army. He married a Russian woman from Philadelphia, had many children, and continued to work as a tailor into the 20th century, possibly selling both his services and clothes. Presuming that it was this Morris Grünfild who owned and marked the flag, it is hard to be sure just how he came into possession of it. The construction is actually typical of flags produced in New York, during this time frame and after, by the Annin Company. Known for single-appliqued stars, and for hand-sewing the stripes of smaller flags in particular, as well as for simply producing more, small, sewn flags than their competitors, the flag closely approximates signed, Annin-made examples that I have previously owned. It may, of course, be that Grünfild acquired the necessary bunting at the wharf and sewed the flag in the same fashion as Annin, but I don’t think so. I do, however, believe that it was he who added the herringbone tape and shoelace ties to a flag probably of Annin manufacture. It’s possible that the 31st NY Regiment used the flag as a flank marker or as camp colors. Though a little large in scale for either when compared to military regulations, the flag is small enough to have served effectively in either function. This unit appears not to have turned any colors in to the state at the war’s end, so likely they were taken home. The role that Grünfild played as a private in C Company is unknown. As a tailor, it’s conceivable that he may have played a role in the care or upkeep of flags, but no further information is available. The 31st NY was a very active unit. Recruited from Williamsburg (just over the Brooklyn Bridge) and Manhattan, it had several nicknames, including the “Montezuma Regiment,” “Baxter Light...

Presented is a patriotic silk scarf, celebrating the Declaration of Independence. At center of the silk scarf design is artistic rendering of the Declaration of Independence. The famous text and signatures are printed in black ink on white silk. A border of bright red encloses the text, with a five-pointed white star set against a blue square appearing at each corner. This is a newly made silk scarf, printed to celebrate our Nation's foundational text. The United States Declaration of Independence...

OUTSTANDING, 13 STAR, ANTIQUE AMERICAN PRIVATE YACHT ENSIGN WITH GREAT FOLK QUALITIES THAT INCLUDE AN UNUSUALLY WIDE ANCHOR AND A DECIDEDLY LOPSIDED RING OF 13 STARS; MADE DURING THE 2ND HALF OF THE 19TH CENTURY; ITS DEVICE HAND-SEWN AND SINGLE-APPLIQUÉD Private yacht ensigns were approved American signals for maritime use that allowed pleasure boats to bypass customs. Though the legislation that approved them was adopted prior to 1850, almost all such flags that one will encounter were sewn by electric machine and made during the 20th century. The unusual gems among surviving examples are those that are earlier and include hand-sewn elements. Even more rare are a select few with atypical graphics. Barely any fall into both of these categories at once. Take note of the anchor on this particular flag, wide a long horizontal crossbar (stock) that contributes to uncommonly wide stance. Set within a ring of stars that is decidedly lopsided, the result is as bold as it is endearingly whimsical—two of the best qualities in American folk art, a category in which this particular example can be filed. While I have owned 13 star private yacht flags that have displayed star and canted anchor devices that were somewhat larger and/or bolder than typical, I cannot recall any that were so graphically intriguing as this one. Brief History of Private Yacht Ensigns: The medallion configuration, 13-star, 13-stripe flag, with a canted center anchor was entered into official use in 1848, following an act of Congress, that made it the official signal for U.S. pleasure sailing vessels. The need for such a flag arose with the popularity of boating as a pastime for well-to-do Americans, and as a competitive sport, in addition to its longstanding utilitarian role as a vehicle of trade. In early America, all boats were subject to customs searches at every port. Without modern income tax, the federal government derived its revenues mostly from tariffs, so an accounting of foreign goods on ships was a critical venture. As yachting for pleasure became more prevalent, however, more and more time was spent searching boats that had no such inventory, wasting time for both customs officials and wealthy ship owners. John Cox Stevens, a former president of the Jockey Club and future founder of the Union League Club, became the New York Yacht Club’s Commodore upon its founding in 1845. In 1847 he approached the secretary of the treasury and suggested that something be done to streamline the customs process for non-trade vessels. In 1848, legislation passed Congress requiring registration of these boats, which could then fly the “American Yachting Signal” to bypass customs. This remained on the books until the 1980’s, when the 1848 legislation was revoked, but the use of flags in this design for decorative function continues to this day. 13 star flags have been flown throughout our nation’s history for a variety of purposes. In addition to their use on private yachts, they were hoisted at patriotic events, including Lafayette’s final visit in 1824-25, the celebration of the nation’s centennial in 1876, and the sesquicentennial in 1926. They were displayed during the Civil War, to reference past struggles for American liberty and victory over oppression, and were used by 19th century politicians while campaigning for the same reason. The U.S. Navy used the 13 star count on small boats until 1916, because it was easier to discern fewer stars at a distance on a small flag. Commercial flag-makers mirrored this practice and some private ships flew 13 star flags during the same period as the Navy. Construction: The stars and anchor are made of cotton, hand-sewn, and single-appliquéd. This means that they were applied to one side of the canton, then the blue fabric was cut from behind each star, folded over, and under-hemmed, so that one star could be viewed on both sides of the flag. I always find single-appliquéd stars more interesting, not only because they are evidence of a more difficult level of seam-work and stitching, but also because they are more visually intriguing. The two visible rows of hand-stitching emphasize their hand-sewn construction. For these reasons, single-appliquéd stars often appeal to connoisseurs of early American textiles...

48 STARFISH-LIKE, NEEDLEWORK EXECUTED STARS ON A HAND-CROCHETED ANTIQUE AMERICAN FLAG FROM THE EARLIEST PART OF THE 48 STAR ERA, 1912-WWI (U.S. INVOLVEMENT 1917-18) OR EVEN PRIOR TO ...