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Vintage Panthère de Cartier Walking Panther Bangle with Tsavoirte Garnets

$27,472.29

About

A beautiful vintage Panthère de Cartier walking panther bangle set in 18k yellow gold. From the current Panthère de Cartier collection, the bangle is composed of a walking panther. The panther has been beautifully crafted in 18k yellow gold and is set with two pear cut tsavorite garnet eyes. Throughout the design are black lacquered spots which create a striking contract once worn. The bangle is fastened by an easy to use hinge fitting and functions by lifting the panther body away from the wrist. This hinge is incredibly easy to take on and off; however once on being very secure. Due to the design this bangle could be worn for a variety of occasions. The panther collection is a firm favourite of many, and this particular design is still being sold in global Cartier stores. You can find the Cartier signature at the end of the panther's tail. The hallmarks read: Cartier, 750, 17, with the serial number NB8901. The bangle is not accompanied by box or papers. The piece is a Cartier size. Total weight is exactly 63.8 grams.

Details

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    Ships From: London, United Kingdom
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About the Design

Panthère de Cartier Bracelet

Designed by Cartier
Purchased by the Duke of Windsor for his wife, the Duchess of Windsor — otherwise known as Wallis Simpson — in 1952, the original Panthère de Cartier bracelet is more like a sculpture for the wrist than a piece of jewelry. It features a diamond-and-onyx-encrusted panther with marquise-cut emerald eyes positioned as if they were fixated on prey. Craftsmen at the internationally acclaimed French jewelry house Cartier had already introduced similarly themed pieces, and the Duchess was by then an ardent admirer of the motif. The panther motif was not a novel concept created specifically for the bracelet. It was instead a long-established icon for Cartier. While the brand was launched in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, it was his grandson Louis Cartier who incorporated the feline figure into its design lexicon. In 1914, Cartier hired illustrator George Barbier to design advertisements for the jewelry house. Barbier drafted a drawing that featured a glamorous woman with an elegant panther at her feet and Cartier loved it. He had an additional connection to the panther in the form of his alleged romantic interest, fellow Cartier designer Jeanne Toussaint, who adored the animal so much that she decorated her apartment with furs and donned a coat of panther fur. Cartier gave her the long-lasting nickname Panthère. While panthers appeared on Cartier vanity cases and more in as early as 1917, the icon didn’t take on its best-known three-dimensional form until the late 1940s, when the Duke of Windsor purchased a brooch from the house for his wife. This piece, designed by Toussaint — the first of at least two brooches bought by the Duke in this era — featured a gold panther lying atop a cabochon emerald. The couple ordered a panther clip in 1949 — this one accompanied by a 152.35-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire — followed by the bracelet three years later. While the bracelet is not accompanied by a large gem, it stands out from its predecessors in that its form is articulated so that its linked pieces can move along the wrist rather than remain fixed in place. The Windsors were not the only customers enamored of Cartier’s panther. Socialites and royalty purchased their own cat jewels from Cartier over the years. Since then, the brand has released numerous Panthère pieces, from the 1983 Panthère de Cartier watch to the 1987 Panthère de Cartier perfume. A special collection of panther-adorned jewelry debuted in 2014 to celebrate the centennial of the icon, although none can quite compare to the Duchess’s original bracelet — it fetched $7 million at auction in 2010.
About the Seller
4.9
Located in London, United Kingdom

Based in London’s prestigious Burlington Arcade and recognized as one of Mayfair’s most knowledgeable jewelers, Susannah Lovis Jewellers has been serving clients for more than 20 years, offering an eclectic selection of fine antique and vintage pieces, with a focus on the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco periods. Its wide-ranging stock includes signed jewels from Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as one-of-a-kind items like gold lion cufflinks and an Art Deco platinum and diamond tiara. Susannah Lovis also designs bespoke jewels, lovingly handcrafted by artists, and can remodel old items to suit new purposes and tastes. Additional services include valuations and repairs.

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