Charm Bracelet As Memoir: French, Circa 1880

Name: Charm Bracelet As Memoir: French, Circa 1880
Brand: Unknown
Price: 2920 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

Dating to the late Victorian-era (Circa 1880), this French silver charm bracelet is unusual for both the high-quality of its charms and their uniqueness as well. Charm bracelets are fascinating. In an era when women's voices were so frequently stifled, the charm bracelet could be deployed as a means of communication, of telling a story without saying a single word. A charm bracelet allowed its owner to express her individuality, her interests, her dreams, her hopes, her regrets. The Victorians loved secrets and secret messages. Perhaps you've seen a Victorian acrostic ring. "Regard" was a very popular ring that featured a ruby, an emerald, a garnet, an amethyst, a second ruby, and a diamond to spell out R-E-G-A-R-D. Every charm bracelet is also a memoir. This particular charm bracelet is composed of 13.5mm wide hollow silver links that alternate between smooth links and links with a surface of tiny raised dots. Though there is a boar's head indicating that this bracelet is of French origin and composed of at least .800 metal fineness, the remaining mark(s) are too worn to decipher. The bracelet is 8 ¼ in length. The charms themselves consist of a padlock with a key attached by a chain. The key, in fact, does unlock the padlock which springs open. This is not the closure for the bracelet (there is a later replacement spring clasp) though it certainly could be used in that way. This padlock is marked STERLING and may be of American origin. Next, we have something highly unusual to find on a charm bracelet —a three-link chain composed of three antique, hand-carved interlocking white nephrite jade rings. I sent this charm to the gem lab to confirm that it is, in fact, natural untreated nephrite. This variety of jade is also referred to as "mutton fat jade." These carved links could easily date from the 1880s or up through the 1920s. Next is a "photo album" charm that unfastens to reveal pages of images, each with a caption. There is "Une Matelote" (the sailor), "Trois-mâts Au Plus Près" (close-up of the three-masted ship), "Groupe De Pêcheurs" (depicting a group of fishermen), "Pêcheuses De Crevettes" (shrimp fishermen), "Le Phare" (a lighthouse), "Promenade en Mer" (walking along the surf), "La Baignade" (swimming), "Plaisir D' enfants" (children in a boat having fun). The black-and-white photographs are just 21mm x 12mm and they are all in remarkably excellent condition. The front of this photo album depicts a lighthouse, much like one of the images inside and on the back is an anchor. Continuing along we have a sphere that. has been set with fine 3mm cabochons of Persian turquoise (one dark blue stone is a replacement). No marks. Up next is the "newest" charm, dating to around 1920: an irregularly faceted approximately 19-carat pale blue beryl. Marked for silver, unknown maker's mark. Beside this is a silver star set with small cabochons of Persian turquoise. Hand-scratched numbers on the back. The final charm is a hollow ball depicting finely engraved birds and flowers. What story do these charms tell? The turquoise star and orb could easily represent the "moon and stars," a popular motif in Victorian jewelry. Stars represented both wisdom but also guidance. A full moon often represented the protection of a loved one. The travel album with a lighthouse on its cover could represent a souvenir from a French seaside town or it could have a deeper meaning; seeking guidance. Anchors represented sailors who were out at sea. The silver ball appears to feature —on both sides— a dove perched on a narcissus flower. Doves represented love; the narcissus unrequited love. The three jade rings remind me of gimmal rings, popular in the 16th and 17th centuries. "Whom God has joined together, Let no man put asunder." The heart-shaped padlock and its key could stand for enduring love. The beryl gem could be there to suggest water. Alas, we will never know for sure. What we do know, however, is that this is a spectacularly beautiful and unique charm bracelet that weighs a hefty 59.71 grams due to its sizeable charms. The spring clasp is an antique (circa 1920) replacement.

Metal:

Silver

Stone:

Beryl

Stone Cut:

Mixed Cut

Weight:

59.71 g

Dimensions:

Length: 8.25 in (209.55 mm)

Style:

Late Victorian

Period:

Late 19th Century

Date of Manufacture:

circa 1880

Condition:

Replacements made: The spring clasp, while antique, is a later replacement. The silver rings attaching the charms to the bracelet are later replacements. Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Southbury, CT

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU1589110606192

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