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Art Deco Bracelets

ART DECO STYLE

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

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Creator: Black, Starr & Frost
Style: Art Deco
Black Starr & Frost Art Deco Diamond and Blue Sapphire Platinum Bracelet
Located in Montreal, QC
Simply Beautiful! Deluxe Fine Quality BLACK STARR & FROST Art Deco Diamond and Sapphire Platinum Bracelet, centering a Bow. Hand set with Diamonds, weighing approx. 5.25tcw and Blue ...
Category

Mid-20th Century Art Deco Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

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An Art Deco, sapphire and diamond bracelet, by Black Starr & Frost, of geometric design, set with Edwardian-cut and baguette-cut diamonds and calibré and faceted, rectangle cut sapphires. Composed of ten square and ten rectangular links, set with fifty-eight square, rectangular and triangular shaped sapphires, weighing approximately 6.50ct and thirty baguette, sixty European-cut and twenty round-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 14.00ct, estimated colour G/H, clarity VS2/SI1 with an invisible clasp. Mounted in platinum. Signed B. S. & F. for Black Starr & Frost, numbered 1220, circa 1925. Isaac Marquand founded Marquand & Co, in 1810, with premises at 166, then 164 Broadway New York. He was joined in partnership by Erastus Barton, an English master craftsman and William Black and Henry Ball began their apprenticeships. Marquand & Co Moved to 181 Broadway, in 1833 and Ball and Black became partners. In 1839 the Marquand family withdrew from the business. Ball and Black brought in their cashier, Erastus O. Tompkins and changed the company name to Ball, Tompkins & Black. In 1858 they built 247 Broadway and Murray Street. Tompkins died in 1851. The name was changed to Ball, Black & Company and they exhibited a gold tea set at the Crystal Palace World’s Exposition, in 1851. They built the first fire-proof building, with the original safe deposit system, at Broadway and Prince Street, in 1860. When the elder members of the firm retired Robert C. Black, the son of William Black, brought Cortlandt Starr and Aaron V. Frost into the partnership. They had a long period of training with the company. It became Black, Starr & Frost and in 1876 built a store at Fifth Avenue and Twenty-Eighth Street and also had premises at Fifth Avenue and Thirty-Ninth Street. In Autumn 1912 they moved to Fifth Avenue and Forty-Eighth Street. Witherbee Black was later president and R. Clifford Black, a vice president. The company was purchased by Gorham Silver Company in 1929, and the name to Black, Starr & Frost — Gorham. From 1940 it was Black, Starr and Gorham. The name reverted to Black, Starr & Frost in 1960 when the company was bought by Marcus & Co. Black Starr & Frost purchased Cartier USA, in 1962. In 1972 Kay Jewelers...
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