Antique 18th Century Foiled Imperial Topaz Girandole Brooch Silver Portuguese

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Antique 18th Century Foiled Imperial Topaz Girandole Brooch Silver Portuguese

About the Item

Antique 18th Century Foiled Imperial Topaz Girandole Brooch in Silver, Portuguese, circa 1770, cased. Set throughout with russet-colored topazes of different shades and shapes (including antique cushion, pear, circular and calibre), this brooch is designed as crossed foliate branches with a flowerhead to the upper middle, suspending three graduated pear-shape cluster drops in the girandole fashion, all stones close-set in foil-back silver characteristic of the period. Set to reverse with a later hinged pin and roller clasp brooch fitting. This brooch is a later conversion from an earring, where the earring fitting was replaced by a brooch fitting. Tested as silver, not marked. Dimensions: 4.3 x 4.0 cm. Gross weight: 14.54g. For similar late 1700s Georgian foil-back imperial topaz girandole Portuguese jewels, see d'Orey, Leonor, "Five Centuries of Jewellery", permanent exhibition of the National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon, Zwemmer Publishers Limited, 1995, pages 70, 72 and 73. For similar late 1700s Georgian girandole Portuguese jewels, see Dawnes, Ginny Redington and Collings, Olivia, "Georgian Jewellery", ACC Art Books, Suffolk, 2018, pages 108 and 110. For similar late 1700s Georgian foil-back imperial topaz girandole Portuguese jewels, see “Oceanos - Ourivesaria Luso-Brasileira do Ciclo do Ouro e dos Diamantes N.43", Lisbon, Comissão Nacional para as Comemorações dos Descobrimentos Portugueses, 2000, pages 12 and 181. For similar late 1700s Georgian foil-back imperial topaz girandole Portuguese jewels, see de Vasconcelos e Sousa, D. Gonçalo, "Reais Jóias no Norte de Portugal", permanent exhibition of Palácio da Bolsa, Oporto, Artes Gráficas – Lello & Irmão, November 1995, ALGUMAS PEÇAS PRESENTES NA EXPOSIÇÃO section. For similar late 1700s Georgian foil-back imperial topaz girandole Portuguese jewels, see Scarisbrick, Diana, “The S. J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal”, London, Sotheby’s, S.J.Phillips, 2017, pages 36, 37, 38, 46, 48, 49 and 63. Of all the styles of eighteenth-century earrings, the girandole was probably the most desirable or night wear. Its design was classic: a central bow or floral-shaped cluster ornament from which were suspended three pear-shaped pendants, the middle pendant usually larger than the two flanking it. Dating back to the 17th century, when beautiful examples were made in rose cut diamonds, the girandole remained fashionable for over a hundred years, possibly because the proportion was particularly flattering to the female face. During the 18th century, girandoles were produced all over Europe in every conceivable material, but some of the most fabulous were crafted in Portugal of topaz, chrysoberyl and “Minas Novas” (colorless topaz, quartz and sometimes by association, paste). The fashion for wearing girandole earrings and brooches of girandole form was to continue right up to the 19th century to be gradually superseded by less flamboyant and more practical styles in the 1840s and 1850s. When girandoles finally went out of fashion, many outstanding examples were broken up to be transformed or simply got damaged beyond repair. This should help appreciate the rarity of the present jewel being offered, which survived the test of time, fashion and wear. Both Portugal and Spain had colonies in South America. Brazil was a treasure trove of precious stones, yielding huge quantities of diamonds, topaz, aquamarine and chrysoberyl gems, which were made into jewelry back in Portugal. These gemstones were pieced together and pave-set to create suites of swagged and beribboned necklaces and earrings in floral and bow motifs. In 1735, the mines of Minas Gerais in Brazil yielded a seam of imperial topaz with a slight pinkish hue. The colorful floral and bow jewelry of Portugal made great use of this delightful gemstone, sometimes mixing it with chrysoberyl, or aquamarine. Imperial topaz was always a costly gemstone and it was not always easy to find enough gemstones of perfectly matched colors to go together in a jewel. That is why it is common for these antique Iberian jewels to be set with a foil behind it, which would enhance the gems’ appearance and help color-match the stones to create the prettiest effect. This item is in good condition, with marks and scratches consistent with general age and wear. Antique, period and vintage pieces, both signed and unsigned, are being offered as worn. Unless otherwise stated, all weights and quality factors have been graded as mounting permitted and using classic gemology and standard gemological equipment. Assessments related to period of manufacture or geographic origin of gemstones are expert opinions and may differ from the assessments provided by other professionals. Colors in the pictures/videos might slightly differ from the colors in real life. For additional information or clarification, please get in touch and our in-house team of expert GIA Graduate Gemologists and certified Registered Appraisers/Valuers will be happy to help.

Stone:
Topaz,Imperial Topaz
Stone Cut:
Antique Cushion Cut
Weight:
14.54 g
Dimensions:
Width: 1.58 in (40 mm)Length: 1.7 in (43 mm)
Style:
Georgian
Place of Origin:
Portugal
Period:
1770-1779
Date of Manufacture:
Circa 1770
Condition:
Additions or alterations made to the original: This brooch is a later conversion from an earring, where the earring fitting was replaced by a brooch fitting. Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Lisbon, PT
Reference Number:
Seller: 606/06E1stDibs: LU2150211776942