French 1960s 18kt 9 Cts Ruby Sapphire Diamond Wild Rose Brooch Pendant

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French 1960s 18kt 9 Cts Ruby Sapphire Diamond Wild Rose Brooch Pendant

About the Item

AN IMPRESSIVE & LARGE 1960S 18KT YELLOW GOLD HAND CUT FACETED ROUND RUBY, BRILLIANT ROUND CUT DIAMOND & HAND CUT FACETED ROUND SAPPHIRE, REALISTIC FRENCH THREE DIMENSIONALLY SCULTPED ‘WILD ROSE BROOCH / PENDANT (ALSO KNOWN AS A ROSA WOODSII / ROSACEAE) WITH APPROXIMATELY 9 CARATS DESIGN DIMENSIONS & SPECIFICATIONS - 71mm tall at its highest point x 35mm across. - Designed with 78 Stones carefully set and well matched with prong setting to produce a three-dimensionally sculpted flower designed with 7 Brilliant Round Cut Diamonds, 60 hand cut faceted round cut Ruby & 11 hand cut faceted round cut graduated Sapphires totaling approximately 8.85carats - French Hallmarked & Serial numbered - Excellent Condition with no damage or missing stones & Sharp Signatures throughout CATALOG NOTE The present creation is a very well made and impressive three dimensional 1960s “wild rose” brooch design concept produced with state of the art gem setting techniques of the period to commission a very high fashion, realistic and proportionally curved gem set flower concept. During this timeframe, design firms put forth new concepts which were inspired from concepts of nature and in doing so wanted to introduce pieces that had a more naturalistic approach but faced new challenges as a result of the limited technology. For many jewelry houses in this period, the concept of producing lifelike examples which required more curved concepts to evoke the naturalistic shape of flowers became difficult since gem setting skills were more limited. As demonstrated with the present example, these very detailed gem set creations required much more planning and attention to detail as well as sourcing to match stone colors for a specific effect to be achieved. The present example which has curved ruby set flower petals is entirely gem set and designed so that the piece illustrates different depths behind the brilliant cut diamonds and is further accented with an 18kt gold woven rope textured leaf behind it and textured gold step that are also set with sapphires. Each element of this piece had to be mapped out in order to produce this very dramatic effect. Additionally, the stones are all well matched and fitted to each proportion of the petals so that relief of the diamonds against ruby back drop is specific heights in the setting to make the leaves curve for a more realistic impression and feel. Additionally, using the present setting gave way to allows the stones to be so tightly set so to onlookers it would appear practically seamless which also was additionally hard because it required extra micro measurements in addition to aligning each stone in certain manner where they fit the petals in the correct depths so that each match all the surfaces evenly, but still allow for a curve at the same time. The main goal was so that the jewelry setting does not distract from the vibrancy of the color of each stone which it held in place. This was a popular challenge that many of the leading jewelry houses such as cartier and van cleef were working to overcome with their concepts and as the movement to more realistic concepts especially of flowers in this period became extremely fashionable. As a result, using colored stones which were also larger than prior design periods because new improvements in gem setting techniques allowed the design firms to create more complex creations which were also special three-dimensional concepts such as the present example to able to be commissioned. Please do not hesitate if you have any additional questions or would photos or video…

Metal:
18k Gold
Stone:
Diamond,White Diamond,Ruby,Sapphire
Stone Cut:
Round Cut
Dimensions:
Height: 2.8 in (71 mm)Width: 1.38 in (35 mm)
Style:
Retro
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1960-1969
Date of Manufacture:
1960s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU1212313885662