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Massive Elsa Schiaparelli Crystal & Rhodium Orchid Brooch & Earrings, 1950s
Offered here is a massive Elsa Schiaparelli rhodium-plated brooch and matching clip-back earrings from the 1950s. The exquisitely engineered hand-soldered three-dimensional design is that of a three-lobed orchid blossom hand-set with hundreds of brilliant Swarovski clear crystals in pear and round cuts. Each earring consists of one matching lobe of the orchid in a curved construction that gently hugs the ear. I cannot begin to convey the fire and sparkle of the stones on this ravishing creation -- the photos cannot begin to convey their dazzling clarity and refulgence. The brooch and its perfectly calibrated earrings shine with the light of a thousand bright mirrors in a candlelit ballroom. This reminds me very much of a few of the pieces in the Duchess of Windsor's collection. The signature on this is intriguing... I have seen this exact piece with the traditional "Schiaparelli" in an oval cartouche on the reverse; and then again, many of her pieces often went unsigned. This one has neither attribute -- it is signed with a script "R&F". My industrious research has turned up no information on this set of initials, so here is my surmise: it is either the mark of the manufacturer who executed the brooch for her, or it is the designation of the designer(s) at Schiaparelli who envisioned it. In any event, it is a brilliant (in several senses) evocation of the best of what Elsa Schiaparelli brought to the world with her couture jewelry -- grace, singularity, and wonder. The condition is perfectly mint, as if it had never been worn; the stones are dazzling and clear throughout, and the rhodium is flawless. This one will turn heads and inspire delight. Dimensions: brooch, 3.5"L x 3"W x 1"H; earrings, 1.75"L x 1.2"W
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