20th Century Brooches

Massive Chanel Cross Brooch in shades of emerald, ruby, topaz and amythest poured glass cabocheons with faux baroque round and pear shape pearls. I...

During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...

An elegant 1980s oversized cross-pin brooch created by French designer Edouard Rambaud, Paris. Features a byzantine-inspired design with a gilt metal ...

This vintage set of signed Hattie Carnegie enamel clip on earrings and small pin and or pendant is reminiscent of a bygone era of Elizabethan meets byzantine influence. The colors ar...

Dramatic 18k yellow gold filagree bow brooch pendant featuring a leaf and scroll design accented with cabochon emerald and man made faceted rubies. The back has a "c" clasp and a hook so you can wear it as a pendant / enhancer as well. The rubies are synthetic and the emerald cabochons are cracked - I believe this piece was made during World War II and they used family stones and what they could get their hands on. 3.8" across by 2.35" wide This piece is in the Byzantine Style. Below is the history of Byzantine Jewelry from Lang Antiques: Byzantine jewelry was a full continuation of the Roman traditions which were kept alive behind the high walls of the new capital, Constantinople. The Roman techniques and styles continued to form the foundation of Byzantine goldsmith‘s skills who weren’t complete copycats; some innovations such as the use of Christian iconography and further specialisation of new and old techniques occurred. Production in the old jewelry centres of Alexandria and Antioch gave way to an increased production in Constantinople. Byzantine jewelry had a huge influence on the manufacturing of personal decoration in the rest of the Medieval world. The Carolingian (start 742 AD) and the later Ottonian courts (start 962 AD) were linked to the Byzantine empire and adopted their fashion resulting in the northern European Romanesque jewelry style. In the Byzantine Empire jewelry...

Chanel's appropriation of Byzantine and Renaissance forms continued throughout her career, often in the form of oversized cruciform brooches and pendants. This one is set in bronz...

Massive Multi Colored Byzantine Crest pendant brooch made by Maison Gripoix, France. Poured glass with rhinestone encrustations forming a large crest ...

Chanel large square shaped cruciform pendant-brooch composed of ruby, emerald, and pearl square cabochons. The center being a signature "Chanel" coin medallion...

Coco Chanel Early Byzantine heart brooch, The silvered metal heart set with crystal pastes and appliqued with faux emerald hand formed pate de verre ro...

Glamorous Roger Jean Pierre French brooch clip from the 1950's with aurora and clear crystal paste stones. The fur clip is attached to a tiered elem...

Chanel byzantine style crest brooch by Maison Gripoix. Poured glass emerald and ruby oval and heart shape cabochons are mixed with faceted cut topaz stone...

Massive Chanel Cross Brooch in shades of emerald, topaz and amythest poured glass cabocheons with faux pearls by Maison Gripoix. Intricate scroll...

Coco Chanel synthesizes her favorite "Go To" motifs into one brooch. The lion (her Astrological sign), the Kilt Pin (her visits to the Scottish Highlands) and the gilt Baroque of her...