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Art Nouveau Brooches

ART NOUVEAU STYLE

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

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Gemstone: Amethyst
Style: Art Nouveau
Vintage Various Art Nouveau Brooches with Gemstones
Located in Stamford, CT
Three various brooches, all with the finest gold work from the early 1900's, are from the far right, a Rikers brooch in 14 Kt with a sapphire and diamond. Rikers is a highly reputed ...
Category

Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold

14Y Lovely Sculpted Oval Amethyst Estate Brooch
Located in Pittsburgh, PA
This striking amethyst brooch is an estate piece originating from the late nineteenth to early twentieth century. The setting is 14k yellow gold featuring a beautifully cut oval center stone...
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Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss 14k Two Tone Gold 10.55ctw Amethyst Flower Brooch Pin
Located in Montclair, NJ
Here we have a large vintage, Allsopp-Bliss Co., brooch that was crafted from solid 14k gold. It features a beautiful flower design that is neatly set with fine amethyst stones as th...
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Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Gold, 14k Gold

925 Sterling Silver 15.10 Carat Statement Amethyst Brooch Pin
Located in Houston, TX
This Statement Amethyst Brooch enhances your attire and is perfect for adding a touch of elegance and charm to any outfit. Crafted with exquisite craftsmanship and adorned with dazzl...
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21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Brooches

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Amethyst, Silver, Sterling Silver

Carved Amethyst and Diamond Bluebell Flower Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Created in the 1920s-1930s, this flower brooch is composed of amethyst, enamel and diamonds, all mounted in platinum. It is designed as a naturalistic pale violet bellflower of carve...
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Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, Platinum, Enamel

French Art Nouveau Bee Pin Brooch Clip 18k Gold Insect Estate Jewelry
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A French Art Nouveau Bee pin brooch clip made in 18 karat gold and featuring colored gemstones and diamond. This piece is one of the purest examples of Art Nouveau flights of fancy. The sinuous lines of the glossy amethyst body are captivating. Note a hidden secret of the piece, a skillfully carved belly. The open-work gold wings, made with precision, accented with cabochon ruby. Diamonds nicely decorating the “face” of this beautiful creature complete the composition. This gold brooch is a miniature...
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1930s French Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Signed Art Nouveau Amethyst & 14k Gold Stick Pin by Brassler Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine antique Art Nouveau amethyst and 14k gold stickpin. By Brassler Co. With a faceted oval prong set amethyst centered of 14k gold shield shaped frame. Simply a great st...
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Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, 14k Gold

Eighteen Karat Rose Gold Amethyst Art Nouveau Brooch Fig by the Artist
Located in Berlin, DE
This Art Nouveau Style Fig Brooch is made of 14 karat yellow gold with amethyst. The collection was featured in a Harper's Bazaar UA editorial. This piece can be personally signed. ...
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21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Quartz, Amethyst, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Art Nouveau Amethyst Diamond Platinum Gold Roses Brooch
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Finely chiselled Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch with a rectangular faceted amethyst. Finely modelled roses, leaves and foliage. Six diamonds are mounted in platinum.
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1890s Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Platinum, 18k Gold

Marcus & Co. Plique-à-Jour Art Nouveau Amethyst and Pearl Brooch
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Marcus & Co Plique-à-Jour Art Nouveau Brooch Authentic antique large oval Amethyst brooch with diamond and pearls. The genuine fine qua...
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Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Amethyst, Freshwater Pearl, 18k Gold

Theodor Fahrner Jugendstil Amethyst Sterling Silver Brooch Pin
Located in Montreal, QC
Rare Art Nouveau Sterling Silver Fahrner oval Brooch, center set with two amethysts, surrounded by embossed lily foliage designs. Signed: TF in circle for: Theodor Fahrner and 935; c...
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1890s German Antique Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Sterling Silver

Heinrich Levinger Art Nouveau Plique-a-Jour Silver Brooch, circa 1902
Located in Berlin, DE
The brooch was made by Heinrich Levinger in Pforzheim, Germany, around 1902. Plique-a-jour enamel decoration, pearl and amethyst. Mounted in silver. ...
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Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Pearl, Silver

Louis Zorra Art Nouveau Diamond Amethyst Pearl and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch
By Louis Zorra
Located in New York, NY
An Art Nouveau 18 karat gold and plique à jour brooch with diamond, amethysts and pearl by Louis Zorra. The brooch has an old mine-cut diamond with an approximate total weight of .65 carat, 21 round bezel-set amethysts with an approximate total weight of 1.10 carats, and a hanging, enamel-capped pearl. Circa 1900. Similar pictured in Imperishable Beauty Art Nouveau Jewelry, by Yvonne J...
Category

Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Enamel

Antique Art Nouveau Carved Amethyst Brooch Pin
Located in Chicago, IL
made in Moscow between 1899 and 1908 The 14K gold brooch is designed as a stylized branch with a hanging bezel-set amethyst and accented with a green demantoid garnet. The amet...
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Early 20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Brooches

Materials

Amethyst

Masriera Plique a Jour Enamel Citrine Amethyst Diamond Fairy Nymph Brooch Penda
Located in New York, NY
Marsiera delicate 18k gold brooch, can be worn as a slide pendant, depicting a nymph fairy with wings. Decorated with Plique-a-jour enamel, diamonds, dangling amethyst and citrines. ...
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20th Century Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches

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Amethyst, Citrine, Diamond, Enamel

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