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Couture S/S1956 SignedDiorDesigner First AB Crystals Western Germany Earrings

About the Item

Distinguishing these couture Christian Dior Spring/Summer 1956 "Western Germany"-stamped silver earrings featuring the first Swarovski gold-foiled aurora-borealis crystals from earrings by fellow Kaufbeuren costume-jewelry designer Max Muller--who had a similar prong-set-crystal-and-soldered-metal style and likewise frequently used clips with a heart cut-out--our earrings include the stamp "59" of his peer Otto Muller. Both leading Czech designers, who were unrelated but had been design partners earlier in their careers, had relocated from glass-smith mecca Gablonz, Czechoslovakia, shortly after WWII to a West-German refugee-populated area near Kaufbeuren, where a bombed ammunitions factory had been designated a new jewelry-manufacturing zone that soon became known as Neugablonz (New Gablonz). According to The Isergebirgs Museum Neugablonz, both Otto and Max obtained their uniquely numbered marks beginning in 1953, when the government-assigned factory sites for each jewelry producer were first registered. Showing that Otto and Max continued to work in proximity, the factory-unit number for the latter was "60", which indicated the nearby location. As rhinestone and metal-finding factories were also located in the Zone, designers often used the same materials for their jewelry, such as the aforementioned heart clips. However, only the paruriers whom Christian Dior commissioned for costume jewelry for his S/S 1956 show were the first to be given access to the new AB crystals that he had developed with Swarovski in 1955. Reflecting Dior's use of bright green and blue colors at that time like our earrings, one of his c.1955 haute-couture silk ballgowns with a floral pattern was auctioned at a leading London fashion-specialized house for 16,000 British pounds in 2024. Apparently more often than not, Max left his custom-made pieces, such as those for movie stars like Sophia Loren, unmarked (see our other listings that include his preferred rectangular stones or baguette highlights) and signed others with his full name or a symbol. Comparatively, Otto used his factory number to identify couture jewelry like these earrings that he hand-soldered himself, such as for Dior whose earliest parures since 1949 lacked a designer brand. After Dior died in 1957, is seems that jewelry commissioned by the new Dior artistic director Yves Saint Laurent included the copyright symbol with the brand and sometimes the production year. Other notable mid-20th-Century crystal-specialized parurier peers of the Mullers who had likewise been designing costume jewelry for fashion designers since the 1930s include Henry Schreiner and Roger Jean Pierre. They also handcrafted pieces seasonally for leading European couture or American ready-to-wear designers ranging from Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel to Elsa Schiaparelli to Paulene Trigere. Justifying our price for the ground-breaking AB-crystal Dior earrings by a prestigious West-Germany-based designer, another 1stDibs seller sold a subsequent Dior Fall/Winter 1957 set by Henkel and Grosse (then based in nearby Pforzheim, West Germany) of crystal earrings and a necklace accentuated with Swarovski-AB stones for $4,540.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    14 g
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1 in (25.4 mm)Depth: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)Length: 1.25 in (31.75 mm)
  • Sold As:
    Set of 2
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1956
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244223730582

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