Van Cleef & Arpels Late-20th Century Ruby Diamond Platinum 'Mystère' Earrings

Price Upon Request

About

A pair of French Mid-20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum earrings with diamonds and rubies by Van Cleef & Arpels. These "Boule" earrings have 136 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats, G/H color, VS clarity, and 186 invisibly set rubies with an approximate total weight of 20.00 carats. French control marks. Additional mark: "33809". With signed Van Cleef & Arpels box. Circa 1960’s.

Van Cleef & Arpels patented the invisible setting in 1933. This dazzling technique consists of setting stones in such a way that no prongs are visible. At first, the invisible setting was reserved for flat pieces, such as the Minaudière precious case inspired by Florence Jay Gould. But as the technique developed, Van Cleef & Arpels began using it on more complex undulating shapes. The technique is so intricate that producing a single brooch takes no less than 300 hours work. Each faceted stone is delicately inserted onto thin gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimeter thick. Once complete, the gems appear to be entirely free-standing, creating an air of mystery.

The invisible setting technique is discussed in "Van Cleef & Arpels", by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1986, pages 117-118.

Signed, “Van Cleef & Arpels”, makers mark, control marks, “33809”.

(MG #16187)

Details

  • Creator
    Van Cleef & Arpels
  • Place of Origin
    France
  • Date of Manufacture
    Circa late 20th Century
  • Condition
    Excellent
  • Dimensions
    0.63 in. W x 1 in. L
    2 cm W x 3 cm L
  • Length
    1 in. (3 cm)
  • Seller Location
    New York, NY
  • Reference Number
    LU89309892
About the Seller

1stdibs seller since 2010

Typical response time: 1 hour

Located in New York, NY

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