Van Cleef & Arpels Late-20th Century Ruby Diamond Platinum 'Mystère' Earrings

Price Upon Request


A pair of French Late 20th Century 18 karat gold and platinum earrings with diamonds and rubies by Van Cleef & Arpels. These “Boule” earrings have 136 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 8.50 carats with VS clarity and G/H color grade. and 186 invisibly set rubies with an approximate total weight of 20.00 carats. French control marks. Additional mark: “33809”. Circa Late-20th Century.

Van Cleef & Arpels patented the invisible setting in 1933. This dazzling technique consists of setting stones in such a way that no prongs are visible. At first, the invisible setting was reserved for flat pieces, such as the Minaudière precious case inspired by Florence Jay Gould. But as the technique developed, Van Cleef & Arpels began using it on more complex undulating shapes. The technique is so intricate that producing a single brooch takes no less than 300 hours work. Each faceted stone is delicately inserted onto thin gold rails less than two-tenths of a millimeter thick. Once complete, the gems appear to be entirely free-standing, creating an air of mystery.

The invisible setting technique is discussed in “Van Cleef & Arpels”, by Sylvie Raulet, Rizzoli, 1986, pages 117-118.

Signed, “Van Cleef & Arpels”, makers mark, control marks, “33809”.

(MG #16187)
Place of Origin
Date of Manufacture
Circa late 20th Century
20th Century
18k Gold
White Diamond
0.63 in. W x 1 in. L
2 cm W x 3 cm L
1 in. (3 cm)
Dealer Location
New York, NY
Number of Items
Reference Number
Macklowe Gallery Jewelry
(646) 759-9243
1stdibs Dealer since 2010 Located in New York, NY
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