Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Taj Mahal Earrings
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Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Taj Mahal Earrings
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:c. 1998
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Excellent condition, they sat unworn in a jewelry box for 15+ years.
- Seller Location:Santa Fe, NM
- Reference Number:Seller: TEG56181stDibs: LU5213797591
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 'Taj Mahal' Black Enamel & Diamond 18k Gold EarringsBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in London, GBCrafted by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., these 18 carat yellow gold clip-on earrings feature a wonderful design inspired by the ornate decoration of the domes that top the Taj Mahal. Each earring is beautifully centred with a round brilliant cut diamond mounted in a rub-over, open back setting, making the diamond weight approximately 0.30ct combined. The masterful pieces are further designed with alternating black enamel and fluted yellow gold sections radiating down the dome. A sophisticated pair that marks the iconic collaboration between Tiffany & Co. and Schlumberger. Stamped TIFFANY & CO. SCHLUMBERGER. "As one of the 20th century’s most gifted artists, Jean Schlumberger’s legacy lives on through his deeply imaginative creations. Icons of sophistication and style, Schlumberger pieces are as essential as they are exquisite—reflecting both the artist’s ingenuity and the technical virtuosity of Tiffany’s expert...Category
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- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Enamel and Diamond EarringsBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Houston, TXThese rare and extremely unique clip on 18 karat yellow gold earrings feature royal blue and bright green enamel accented by a starfish with approximate weight of 0.60 carats of 50 r...Category
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