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Tiara & Necklace Diamonds, Diamond Briolettes for Wedding or Gala 8 TCW Art Deco

About the Item

This Art Deco 18K white gold and diamond tiara is an exceptionally rare and gorgeous jewel. Created entirely by hand in the 1930s, this semi-flexible 15" tiara is composed of thirty 9mm long by 3.15 rectangular segments of 18k white gold, each of which is channel-set with four tiny brilliant round diamonds. Each rectangular segment is joined to the other by a bezel-set round brilliant. Beginning three-quarters of the way forward on the tiara are nine upside-down "U" shaped mountings, each of which is set with two round brilliant diamonds on the interior and then three additional diamonds atop the rounded portion of the "U." The diamonds are close-backed, so a perfectly accurate weight cannot be obtained, but using a geological mathematical formula, I estimate the total diamond weight on the frame of the tiara to be approximately 3.8 carats. Not counting the freely-dangling diamond briolettes. There are nine, and they are magnificent, fire-filled, and faceted tears of joy. Each measures approximately 5.45mm x 3.44mm x 2.89mm which, again, by formula, suggests a diamond weight of between .51 -.57 carats. So we will go with the lower number, as we always do here, and this gives us a diamond weight for the briolettes alone of 4.59 carats. Altogether, this simultaneously subtle and spectacular tiara has a total -approximate- diamond carat weight of 8.39 carats. The tiara has a length of approximately 12". This is a tiara that can be worn in several ways. It can "surround" the base of a bun atop the head, or could be similarly positioned lower toward the nape to adorn a chignon, or it could be pinned to the very top of the head where it could secure a wedding veil into position. So this is not a tiara like the Princess of Wales's favorite tiara, The Lover's Knot; but then is a tiara of that scale ever appropriate for one who is not a duchess, a princess of a reigning monarch? This is an absolutely perfect wedding tiara. But because it transforms an ordinary chignon or updo into something quite a bit more dazzling, it is also the ideal tiara for formal occasions. Like many tiaras, this one may also be worn as a chocker necklace if one has a small neck. If you can wear a 16" strand of pearls, you can wear this tiara as a choker. At the very tip at one end of the jewel is a metal fineness mark for 18K. But scratched above this stamp are three numerals: "780." The master jeweler who created this masterpiece would have known the precise weight of all the diamonds he mounted into this tiara and if we add just one decimal point to the above number, we end up with a total diamond count that is .59 carats less than my approximate-by-calculation number. So I am confident that the "780" is, in fact, 7.80 carats. Enlarge the images and scrutinize them. Never has the lack of any maker's mark been more maddening; because who created this wondrous jewel: Cartier, Tiffany, or is it the work of a rogue genius? It is unknowable. Though it was almost certainly created in the United States. But it is a treasure to behold.

Metal:

18k Gold

Stone:

Diamond

Stone Cut:

Briolette Cut

Weight:

30.6 g

Dimensions:

Length: 12 in (304.8 mm)

Style:

Art Deco