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Edwardian Drop Necklaces

EDWARDIAN STYLE

Antique Edwardian jewelry is named for King Edward VII of Great Britain, who ruled from 1901 until 1910. Classic Edwardian necklaces, engagement rings, earrings and other jewelry are often overshadowed by the more popular style of the era, Art Nouveau, which is a shame. At its best, Edwardian jewelry was all about the exquisite diamond, platinum and pearl creations made by such famous names as Cartier and Boucheron.

Edward introduced incredibly formal Buckingham Palace court presentations, balls and soirées, resulting in a huge demand for diamond jewels starting with his coronation in 1902. Dozens of tiaras and formal jewels in an updated 18th-century style were purchased from French jewelers Boucheron and Chaumet and from Russia’s Fabergé. The court jewelers Asprey, Garrard, Carrington and the newly opened London branch of Cartier were all overwhelmed with orders for sumptuous diamond jewelry to be worn at the king’s elaborate coronation.

During the Edwardian era, pearls were more valuable than diamonds. The pear-shaped pearl La Peregrina, for example, belonged to some of the most fabulous and strongest women in history and bounced among royal courts in Spain, France and Russia for several centuries. So while today the scale and clarity of a diamond ring matters, back then the size and quantity of your pearls was more important a declaration of wealth. And just as Victorian notions of propriety and femininity began to change after Queen Victoria died in 1901, jewelry design also evolved but there was some overlap with late Victorian styles.

Women of the Edwardian period sported bejeweled headpieces like tiaras and bandeaus with feathered aigrettes. Another popular piece of jewelry that is said to have been directly inspired by Queen Alexandra were colliers de chien, or dog collars — today's choker necklaces — which consisted of either a ribbon decorated with a brooch, a gemstone or several strands of pearls strung closely together.

Two major jewelry houses, Cartier and Boucheron, were founded in the mid-1850s, and by the beginning of the 20th century, the wealthy considered them household names. The Cartier brand became even more desirable once the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Cartier took this title seriously and designed some of the most innovative jewelry of its day, since it was willing to experiment with new materials like platinum and because it was mindful of fashion trends. Filigree settings also became popular. This saw-piercing technique was decorative and at the same time created a sense of lightness.

Perhaps even more important than Cartier’s use of platinum was the founding of De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888. The discovery of new diamond mines made the stone more affordable and prompted the introduction of new gemstone cuts. It is not uncommon to see Edwardian jewels with baguette or briolette diamonds.

Find antique Edwardian rings, bracelets, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

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Gemstone: White Diamond
Style: Edwardian
Cartier Paris 1900 Edwardian Guilloche Enamel Pin 18Kt Gold Platinum And Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Belle Epoque pin designed by Cartier. Colorful and very rare stick pin made during the Edwardian-Belle Epoque period. This beautiful piece was created in Paris France by the jewelry house of Cartier, back in the 1900. Carefully crafted in two parts made up of solid platinum, yellow and white gold of 18 karats. Embellished with a central panel decorated with engine turned guilloche topped with purple glossy enamel. Accented with thirty-five natural earth mined rose cut diamonds and the settings are finished with millegrain. Diamonds: Mounted in millegrain settings, with 35 old rose cut diamonds, 0.30 carats, G/H color, SI-1 clarity. Weight: 2.35 Grams, (1.51 Dwt). Measurements: 70 mm by 12 mm (2.76 x 0.47 Inches). Hallmarks Stamped with French marks, the maker's maitre mark CA inside a lozange cartouche, the head of the eagle for the assay and warranty of the gold, the four digits serial numbers and signed, "CARTIER PARIS 3840". Cartier The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Lang's with thanks). Edwardian Jewelry This Period was during the King Edward VII, after whom this period of jewelry history is named, reigned over England for only nine years, yet the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was created roughly between 1890 and 1920. Edwardian-era rings tend to be larger, opulent pieces, and stacked ring designs were popular. The metal surfaces of the rings were often diamond-encrusted for additional shimmer. Each of these rings is a work of art, showcasing a bygone era of grace, elegance and the royalty the Edwardian era is named for. Guilloché This term is used in fine jewelry or objects de Vertu to enhance the appearance of boxes, frames, brooches, rings or pendants. Guilloché enamel refers to metal pieces that have been given the Guilloché treatment and then covered with a translucent layer of enamel, giving the geometric patterns underneath the enamel a colorful hue. Millegrain This is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry. Literature: Sotheby's fine jewels, London September 17 1021, Lot 146 for an identical piece illustrated with the original box Collateral: It is accompanied by the original Cartier presentation green jewelry box...
Category

Early 1900s French Antique Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Diamond, Enamel, Platinum, Yellow Gold, White Gold, 18k G...

French Edwardian 61.83 Carats Star Sapphire Diamond Silver Whiplash Pendant
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Featuring a round sapphire cabochon weighing approximately 61.00 carats - transparent medium blue. Displaying a subtle six-rayed asterism - prong set with a whiplash motif surround. Suspending from an articulating chain - with rose-cut diamonds throughout. Weighing approximately 0.83 carat total - quality consistent with cut and age. Bead and bezel set in silver-topped gold. Completed by hinged enhancer-style bale. Tested as 18 karat gold with French hallmarks for silver. With maker's mark. Circa: 1910. Measures: 1 x 2 1/2 inches. Total weight: 18.0 grams. Stock Number: We-11184 Immerse yourself in the allure of French Edwardian opulence with this extraordinary Antique Enhancer...
Category

1910s French Vintage Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Star Sapphire, Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold...

Edwardian 1905 Art Nouveau Necklace Platinum 18Kt Gold 15.12 Ctw Peridot Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian gem set convertible necklace with peridot. Beautiful piece of jewelry, created during the late Edwardian period in the art-nouveau style, circa 1908. This beautiful neckla...
Category

Early 1900s American Antique Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Peridot, Platinum

Antique Edwardian Negligee Necklace Opal Diamond Pearl Platinum Vintage Jewelry
Located in Torrance, CA
Finely detailed antique Edwardian era negligee drop necklace (circa 1900s to 1910s), crafted in 900 platinum (sterling silver jump ring). The east west facing circular mount is set...
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Opal, Pearl, Platinum, Sterling Silver

Edwardian Pearl 2.25 Carat Diamond Ruby Platinum-Topped 18 Karat Gold Necklace
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A swag style platinum cable chain centers a large and ornate pendant brooch Set throughout by rose cut diamonds and a bezel set old European cut diamond Weighing in total approxima...
Category

1910s Vintage Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Edwardian Sapphire and Diamond Necklace in Platinum circa 1915 Sapphire 1.70
Located in Wailea, HI
Edwardian Sapphire and Diamond Necklace in Platinum circa 1915 One Cushion Cut Sapphire Weighing 1.70 Carats Approximately [bri...
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Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Edwardian Opal Diamond Gold Platinum Drop Necklace
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Rendered in platinum over 18k yellow gold, with a 9.5 carat oval opal at the center of a frame of brilliant white diamonds. Each edge finished with milgrain. The design is both sophisticated and playful, with the major pendant swinging suspended from a diamond floret cluster. In total, the diamonds weigh approximately 2.5 carats. The necklace is offered in an original antique presentation box.
Category

1910s Vintage Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Opal, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum, Gold

Tiffnay & Co. Edwardian Platinum Pearl and Diamond Necklace
Located in Amsterdam, NL
An Edwardian platinum lavalière necklace with a pendant of a flower cluster of a large natural grey pearl surrounded with 12 old cut diamon...
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1910s American Vintage Edwardian Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Platinum

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