Skip to main content
  • Want more images or videos?
    Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 5

Cartier London Retro Fluted Coral Diamond Gold Ring

$75,000

About

A ring composed of spiral fluted carved coral segments spaced by lines of diamonds on a spiral fluted band; mounted in platinum and 18-karat gold • Signed Cartier London • Measurements: 1 1/4 x 1 1/8 x 1/2 inches • Ring Size: 6 3/4 Significance In 1933 Jeanne Toussaint, a visionary with superb taste, took over as director of the luxury jewelry department at Cartier. She moved the company away from the structured jewels of the Art Deco and into more figurative pieces that brought playfulness to the dark times of World War II. Toussaint remained deeply connected to the design roots of the company—after all she was the inspiration for the panthère—and looked back at previous forms, reviving Chimeras and panthers with modern materials and design. Toussaint favored coral, relying on the material that Cartier used to great effect during the 1920s, often paired with black and white. When Vogue magazine pictured Toussaint’s personal jewels in 1949, all four of the pieces featured carved coral, including a carved coral and diamond ring very similar to this ring. The cover of the Paris fashion magazine L’Officiel in December 1954 also featured exceptional Cartier coral jewelry, including a similar coral and diamond ring. In the 1950s, cocktail rings became bold, colorful and oversized—they were meant to draw attention to the hand as it rested on the stem of a fluted glass or held a beaded purse against a biased cut silk dress. The idea of a bold statement ring became popular in the 1920s, when women seized social freedoms and began to work outside the home, take up sports, and socialize at nightclubs. Toussaint expanded on the idea of the cocktail ring, creating the unusual silhouette with rounded fluted coral accented by lines of channel-set diamonds against a similarly fluted gold band. This iconic ring design was celebrated by top fashion magazines of the day, Vogue and L’Officiel, and Toussaint favored it so much that she made one for herself. This important and wearable jewel will be coveted by the most stylish of collectors. Literature cf. L’Officiel, December 1954. cf. Vogue, October 15, 1949.

Details

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping
    Free Standard Parcel Shipping
    to anywhere in the world, arrives in 1-3 weeks, excluding production time.
    We recommend this shipping type based on item size, type and fragility.
    Ships From: New York, NY
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.

1stDibs Buyer Protection Guaranteed
If your item arrives not as described, we’ll work with you and the seller to make it right. Learn more

About the Designer

Cartier

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle reportedly inspired by medieval chastity belts.While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces. It’s certainly one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.
About the Seller
5 / 5
Located in New York, NY

Siegelson is a world-renowned gallery offering rare collectible jewels. Third-generation gem and jewelry dealer Lee Siegelson has been credited with bridging the gap between art and jewelry design, in the process transforming estate jewelry into a vibrant part of the luxury goods and collectibles world. Focusing on a piece’s design rat...

Recognized Seller
These prestigious sellers are industry leaders and represent the highest echelon for item quality and design.
Diamond Seller
These expertly vetted sellers are 1stDibs' most experienced sellers and are rated highest by our customers.
Established in 1920
1stDibs seller since 2020
6 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 3 hours
More From This Seller

You May Also Like

Cartier 18 Karat Yellow Gold Engraved and Coral Ring
By Cartier
Located in Paris, FR
CARTIER 18 kt yellow Gold engraved and Coral double Ring CARTIER Engraved Ring in 18 kt yellow Gold setting two Coral Cabochons. Gross weight: 18.4 g Diameter 16.25 Size: 51 Ring sig...
Category

Vintage 1960s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Coral, 18k Gold

Cartier Diamond Gold Bypass Ring
By Cartier
Located in Feasterville, PA
Cartier diamond ring adorned with white diamonds in 18-karat white gold form this classic bypass ring. The setting increases the traditional elements of the ring while the graceful o...
Category

1990s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Diamond Gold Bypass Ring
$5,200 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping
Cartier Paris Diamond Gold Ring
By Cartier
Located in Feasterville, PA
An exceptionally rare authentic Cartier ring in 18k white gold set with the finest Cartier round brilliant cut diamonds. Size: US 6 1/2 / EU 53 Dimensions: .53″ Inches Wide In...
Category

1990s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Paris Diamond Gold Ring
$3,760 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping
Cartier Diamond Gold Bypass Ring
By Cartier
Located in Feasterville, PA
A fabulous Cartier bypass style ring featuring 1ct of the finest Cartier round brilliant cut diamonds in 18k white gold. Size 53. US 6 1/2 Inventory ID: 0000518
Category

1990s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Diamond Gold Bypass Ring
$4,400 Sale Price
32% Off
Free Shipping
Cartier Paris Diamond Gold Ring
By Cartier
Located in Feasterville, PA
An exceptionally rare authentic Cartier ring in 18k white gold set with the finest Cartier round brilliant cut diamonds. Size: US 6 1/2 / EU 53 Dimensions: .53″ Inches Wide Invento...
Category

1990s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold

Cartier Paris Diamond Gold Ring
$4,000 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping
Carved Coral, Diamonds, Sapphires, Rose Gold and Silver Retro Ring
Located in Marcianise, Caserta
Vintage ring in 9k rose gold and silver structure, mounted with a central finely carved coral flower, surrounded by a flowery structure studded with diamonds and blue sapphires The o...
Category

Vintage 1980s Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Sapphire, 9k Gold, Rose Gold, Silver

Coral Rose, Sapphires, Emeralds, Diamonds, 14 Karat White Gold Retro Ring
Located in Marcianise, Caserta
Cocktail ring in 14k white gold structure, mounted with a finely carved pink coral rose in the centre, surrounded by flowery details in white and yellow gold studded with diamonds, e...
Category

Vintage 1980s Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Arabesque White Gold Diamond Cocktail Ring
By Cartier
Located in Feasterville, PA
A dramatic white gold cocktail ring from Cartier’s Arabesque collection. Three carats of the finest Cartier round brilliant cut diamonds are set in three S-shaped, 18k white gold des...
Category

Early 2000s Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Arabesque White Gold Diamond Cocktail Ring
$24,000 Sale Price
20% Off
Free Shipping

The 1stDibs Promise

Learn More

Expertly Vetted Sellers

Confidence at Checkout

Price-Match Guarantee

Exceptional Support

Buyer Protection

Insured Global Delivery