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Jean Després, Lapis Lazuli, 18K White and Yellow Gold Ring, c. 1930

About the Item

This lapis lazuli, yellow, and white gold ring by Jean Després exemplifies the bold elegance of French Modernist design in the early 20th century. Created in 1930, the ring features a striking geometric composition with a rectangular bezel inlaid with polished lapis and white gold. The lapis—an intense ultramarine blue flecked with golden pyrite inclusions—is cut into a central diagonal band, flanked by crisp triangular inlays of white gold. The result is a dynamic interplay of color, texture, and symmetry. The broad, architectural bezel is set atop a tapered yellow gold shank, with Després’ signature sculptural detailing at the shoulders—an homage to his background in metalwork and his affinity for streamlined, industrial-inspired forms. This ring is a superb example of Després’ ability to harmonize precious materials with the mechanical elegance of the Machine Age, embodying the spirit of both the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements. It is signed J. Després, bears the maker’s mark, weighs 15.33 grams, and is a size 9. Jean Després (1889–1980) was a leading figure in 20th-century French jewelry design, renowned for his powerful, geometric, Cubist-inspired style. Trained as a goldsmith, Després was immersed in the vibrant Montmartre art scene, where he formed close friendships with avant-garde artists such as Georges Braque, Pablo Picasso, and Amedeo Modigliani—relationships that deeply informed his aesthetic sensibilities. During World War I, Després worked designing aircraft parts for the French government, an experience that profoundly influenced his artistic direction. His jewelry, shaped by the industrial forms and functionality of the Machine Age, garnered acclaim among intellectuals and creative elites, including figures like Joséphine Baker and Andy Warhol. Today, his work is represented in major museum collections, including the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris and The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.