Leitão & Irmão Art Deco Colombian Emerald Geometric Odeonesque Ring Platinum

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Leitão & Irmão Art Deco Colombian Emerald Geometric Odeonesque Ring Platinum

About the Item

Leitão & Irmão Art Deco Colombian emerald geometric Odeonesque cocktail ring in platinum, Portugal, circa 1930, in original maker’s case. This treasure by the Portuguese crown jeweler features 15 vivid green emeralds in open-back millegrain settings, modelled as a stylized bow of odeonesque design, the central knot shaped like a half barrel and millegrain-set with three cushion-cut and baguette-cut emeralds, the bow equally set with calibré-cut emeralds, flowing through to a wide platinum shank with geometric shoulders. This dress ring is a fantastic example of its period, with a three-dimensionality typical of late Art Deco designs hinting Art Moderne, further accented with intricately pierced and carved galleries decorated with floral and foliate motifs. Emeralds: estimated 3.11ct in total; vivid Green color (assessed); geographic origin opinion Colombia (uncertified). Main Emeralds: estimated 1.23ct (approximately 5.2 x 5.7 x 5.85 mm), 0.35ct (approximately 4.8 x 4.7 x 3.2 mm) and 0.33ct (approximately 4.82 x 4.8 x 2.87 mm). Remaining emeralds: estimated 1.2ct in total. Maker’s mark for Leitão & Irmão crown jewelers; Lisbon hallmark “seagull” (used 1920-1937) for platinum. Finger size: 54 (EU), but can be sized up or down. Gross weight: 11.0g. Odeonesque rings are so called because their tiers of gemstones are reminiscent of the tiered seating in the music and picture halls (often called an “Odeon” from the Greek meaning “song”), which became popular in Europe from the 1910s onwards. Owing its origins to the late 18th century, Leitão & Irmão is one of the oldest and most prestigious jewelers in Portugal and the world. Making their mark in the Portuguese empire with their works of rare beauty and refinement, they were granted the title of “Crown Jewelers” in 1887, recognizing their role in creating gifts for family, friends and personalities of the royal family. This item is in good condition, with marks and scratches consistent with general age and wear. Antique, period and vintage pieces, both signed and unsigned, are being offered as worn. Unless otherwise stated, all weights and quality factors have been graded as mounting permitted and using classic gemology and standard gemological equipment and might slightly differ from the assessments provided by other gemologists. Assessments related to period of manufacture or geographic origin of gemstones are expert opinions and may differ from the assessments provided by other professionals. Colors in the pictures/videos might slightly differ from the colors in real life. When certificated stones are being offered, the certificate or report will be mentioned. For additional information or clarification, please get in touch and our in-house team of expert GIA Graduate Gemologists and Registered Appraisers/Valuers will be happy to help. Upon request, every item sold by Espadim 1985 will be accompanied by a complimentary valuation, which you can use for insurance, authenticity and reference and safekeeping purposes; this will contain a detailed description, technical information and photographic records of the item.