An Arts And Crafts Silver-Mounted Shagreen Casket By Omar Ramsden 1931

A fabulous Art Deco ‘Un Cercle’ clip brooch by Van Cleef and Arpels c.1931, the brooch of open circular form set throughout with brilliant cut diamonds, embellished to each side with baguette diamonds and to the centre front with an angular geometric motif channel set with baguette and brilliant cut diamonds, the lower half with cut out details adding to the contrast between the curved and straight edges, all in platinum with a hinged opening, the top right quarter folding forwards to allow the brooch to be clipped in place. This is an iconic VCA design that has featured in books and exhibitions on the jewellery of this prestigious Maison. An archival advert for ‘Un Cercle’ shows how versatile the clip is, the clever mechanism allowing it to be pinned easily to hats, clothing and even an evening bag. Anywhere you need a touch of pure glamour, pin the ‘Circle’ and it is instantly elevated. Maker Van Cleef & Arpels Period Circa 1931 Origin French Gemstones 14 x baguette diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 1.2cts 81 x brilliant cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 6.4cts Setting Platinum signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Bte SGDC numbered and with workshop mark for Rubel Freres and French assay mark Weight 23 grams Dimensions 4.9cm / 1.9” in diameter 0.5cm / 0.2” wide at narrowest point tapering to 1.1cm / 0.43” at widest point Condition Very fine Literature & Exhibitions See ‘Set in Style – The Jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels’, Sarah D. Coffin p.225 for an image of this brooch design alongside an archival advert for it. Directors Notes The names of Jean and Robert Rubel are relatively unknown today but during the 1920s and 30s they ran one of the most important jewellery workshops in Paris. Responsible for creating many beautiful and iconic jewels of the period, predominantly for Van Cleef & Arpels, the firm was one of the ‘unsung heroes’ of French haute joaillerie in the first half of the 20th Century. Before emigrating from Hungary to France, the brothers had run a successful jewellery shop in their native Budapest. They settled in Paris and opened a workshop at 22 rue Vivienne, not far from the Place Vendôme, in 1915. They gradually built their business and reputation for fine quality craftsmanship and within ten years they were working for some of the most prestigious Parisian jewellers. One such client was Van Cleef & Arpels who began working with Rubel Frères sometime around 1923 and the two firms would go on to form a close working relationship that would last for twenty years. They remained in Paris, quietly creating their masterpieces for sale in the Place Vendome boutiques, until 1939. It was then that they were offered the opportunity to move to America where Van Cleef & Arpels had recently opened offices. The two brothers were asked to set up and supervise a workshop in New York which would make the Van Cleef jewellery...

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A striking gold, iron and lacquer 'Damascene' cuff bangle designed by Angela Cummings and made by Tiffany & Co. c.1979, the solid cuff measuring 2cm wide with an opening at the back, formed of iron which has been applied with a rich brown lacquer and decorated with an overlayed geometric graphic design in 24ct gold. This bangle is part of Cummings ‘Damascene’ collection which she created for Tiffany during the late 1970s and early 1980s, the inspiration for which came from her study of the Japanese tradition of shakudo. The bangle exhibits the fine workmanship her pieces are renowned for coupled with a clean and contemporary aesthetic and easy wearability. The collection was limited to a few different designs and shapes and was featured in the iconic Tiffany Blue Book in both 1978 and 1979. Maker Tiffany & Co. designed by Angela Cummings Period Circa 1980 Origin America Setting 18ct yellow gold and iron signed T. & Co. and numbered Weight 26.6 grams Dimensions Inner circumference 17cm / 6.69" Width 2cm / 0.78" Condition Very fine Directors Notes Angela Cummings joined Tiffany & Co. in 1968, working under the guidance of Donald Claffin for several years before launching her first full collection under her own name in 1975. She remained with Tiffany for nine years during which time she created many beautiful jewels, predominantly in yellow gold and typically featuring inlaid gem...

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