Cartier Ballon Bleu 36 WJBB0005 or 3003 Ladies Rose Gold Diamond Watch

While Cartier’s distinctive angular timepieces have long been coveted among luxury watch wearers, the versatile round addition that debuted in 2007 plays no small role in the acclaimed French jewelry house’s ever-broadening popularity. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch has a stainless-steel case that is curved on both the front and back side, lending it a traditional feel while it simultaneously caters to contemporary tastes by updating Cartier for the 21st century. The “Ballon” in its name refers to the way the balloon-like case appears to float on the wrist, but the “Bleu” hints at a more hidden touch of elegance. Tucked away on the winding crown — outside the case at 3 o’clock and below a loop extending from it — is a small sapphire or synthetic blue spinel cabochon, depending on the model. Although it’s one of the more contemporary models in Cartier’s watch arsenal, the Ballon Bleu gained fans quickly, with Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, regularly seen sporting one. 

When Louis Cartier (1875–1942) made a square, flat wristwatch for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, a large number of people were still using pocket watches to keep time. The novel geometric design — called the Santos for the aviation pioneer and brought to market in 1911 — was hugely influential in the 20th-century rise of the wristwatch as a ubiquitous accessory. The Cartier company would continue to innovate over the following decades, such as with the Cartier Tortue watch, which is reminiscent of a tortoiseshell, and the boxy Cartier Tank watch, which was inspired by a military tank. Notably, these designs often had square and rectangular cases that contrasted sharply with the style of 19th-century watches, which were curved, like clocks in miniature. Just over a century after the Santos wristwatch was introduced, Cartier would break with its own tradition to create a throwback look with the Ballon Bleu.

The Ballon Bleu has a balanced mix of these antique references and Cartier’s own quality standards, which have been refined over 150 years of watchmaking. Designed to be worn by both men and women, it makes a statement with its slightly domed form yet is lightweight for a range of wrists, able to be dressed up or down. Roman numerals, a familiar attribute among many of Cartier’s most popular wristwatches, circle a large guilloche dial, with the time indicated by blue sword-shaped hands, all activated by the blue winding mechanism. Ballon Bleu de Cartier watches come in a variety of models — from understated versions in yellow gold to more decadent models adorned with a spray of diamonds — each boasting the same Cartier precision in its craftsmanship.

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.