Skip to main content
  • Want more images or videos?
    Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 5

Cartier New York, Charlton & Co. Art Deco Diamond Wristwatch

$175,000

About

A watch composed of an openwork bracelet of old European- and baguette-cut diamonds centering a watch case with a single-cut diamond surround, white rectangular dial with black Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, with nickel-finished, jeweled lever movement; mounted in platinum • 34 old European-cut and 58 circular and single-cut diamonds, total weighing approximately 8 carats • 26 baguette-cut diamonds, total weighing approximately 2 carats • Dial signed “Charlton & Co. New York;” movement with Geneva Seal, no. “9061;” bracelet signed “Cartier” • Reproduction of original Cartier drawing • Measurements: 6 3⁄4 x 3⁄4 inches On December 20, 1922, James Buchanan Duke purchased a diamond wristwatch with a pearl band from the prestigious American jewelry house Charlton & Co., presumably as a Christmas present for his second wife, Nanaline. James, an industrialist and philanthropist, achieved wealth and recognition in the tobacco and electric industries, and he established educational, health, social, and religious institutional endowments. He died in 1925, leaving behind Nanaline and their 12-year-old daughter, Doris, to whom he left half his fortune, with the other half going to charity. On January 29, 1935, Nanaline commissioned Cartier to create a diamond watchband for the Charlton timepiece. As was customary in catering to significant clients, Pierre Cartier, head of the New York branch, personally handled her unusual request. Cartier complemented the square case with a diamond bracelet composed of circular and baguette-cut diamonds forming a cross pattern adjoining a stylized Indian lotus flower motif. Doris Duke inherited this bracelet, likely upon her mother’s death in 1962, along with the rest of Nanaline’s jewelry and a fur coat. An American icon, Doris followed her father’s philanthropic example, establishing one of the nation’s largest charitable foundations and donating more than $400 million over the course of her lifetime. An insatiable collector, she filled several houses with English and French furniture, Southeast Asian and Islamic art, and rare wines. Her most impressive—and most personal—collection was her jewelry, a mix of pieces inherited from her family and purchased over the years. The beautiful design of this watch epitomizes the refined elegance of the Art Deco period as expressed by two venerable American jewelry houses and will look stunning on any wrist. Provenance • Nanaline Duke • Doris Duke Literature • Zapata, Janet, et al. Gems from the East and West: The Doris Duke Jewelry Collection. New York: Doris Duke Charitable Foundation, 2003, p. 42. Exhibition • Gems from the East and West: The Doris Duke Jewelry Collection, Rough Point, Newport, R.I., May 8–September 30, 2003; Honolulu Academy of Arts, Hawaii, October 15–December 31, 2003, exhibit no. 27.

Details

  • Creator
  • Case Material
  • Stone
  • Stone Cut
  • Case Dimensions
    Width: .75 in. (19.05 mm)Length: 6.75 in. (171.45 mm)
  • Style
  • Place of Origin
    United States
  • Period
  • Date of Manufacture
    1922
  • Condition
  • Seller Location
    New York, NY
  • Reference Number
    Seller: F70991stDibs: LU2075211616162

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping

    Ships From: New York, NY
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.

1stDibs Buyer Protection Guaranteed
If your item arrives not as described, we’ll work with you and the seller to make it right. Learn More

About the Designer

Cartier

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

On 1stDibs, find a growing collection of contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories.

About the Seller
5.0
Located in New York, NY
Recognized Seller
These prestigious sellers are industry leaders and represent the highest echelon for item quality and design.
Established in 1920
1stDibs seller since 2020
8 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 17 hours
More From This Seller
  • Cartier Diamond Pearl and Onyx Watch, Art Deco, Paris, c. 1920
    By Cartier
    Located in New York, NY
    Art Deco Diamond, Pearl, and Onyx Watch by Cartier, Paris, circa 1920 A watch with a square, cream-colored dial with Roman numerals and blued steel hands within a diamond border, a...
    Category

    Vintage 1920s Art Deco Wrist Watches

    Materials

    Diamond, Onyx, Pearl, Platinum, Gold

  • Cartier Paris Art Deco Cuff Bracelet Removable Sapphire Diamond Clips
    By Cartier
    Located in New York, NY
    A polished gray gold cuff set a the front with two detachable clips, each of floral design set with petals of oval and cushion-shaped sapphires, the centers set with round diamonds; ...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s Art Deco Cuff Bracelets

    Materials

    Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum

  • Cartier Paris circa 1930 Art Deco Gold, Platinum, and Diamond Lighter
    By Cartier
    Located in New York, NY
    A lighter in the form of an oval column with a field of prong-set diamonds at the opening; mounted in yellow gold with platinum accents, with French assay marks; in original fitted C...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s Art Deco Vanity Items

    Materials

    Diamond, Gold, Platinum

  • Cartier Paris circa 1925 Art Deco Black Onyx Diamond Topiary Jabot Brooch
    By Cartier
    Located in New York, NY
    A brooch designed as a potted topiary set throughout with European-cut diamonds, interspersed with French-, baguette-, and single-cut diamonds, accented with black onyx detailing, co...
    Category

    Vintage 1920s Art Deco Brooches

    Materials

    Diamond, Onyx, Platinum

  • Cartier Pair of Art Deco Candelabra, Paris, circa 1930
    By Cartier
    Located in New York, NY
    Pair of Art Deco Candelabra Made by Robert Linzeler for Cartier, Paris, circa 1930 A pair of candelabra each composed of two candle cups surmounting stepped forms of concentric circl...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Art Deco More Objets d'Art and Vertu

  • Cartier Moonstone and Sapphire Tuxedo Dress Set circa 1920 Art Deco Cufflinks
    By Cartier
    Located in New York, NY
    Art Deco Moonstone and Sapphire Dress Set by Cartier, Paris, circa 1920 A dress set composed of a pair of cufflinks, four buttons, and four studs, each with a round frosted moonston...
    Category

    Vintage 1920s Art Deco Cufflinks

    Materials

    Moonstone, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold

You May Also Like

Art Deco Cartier Diamond Wristwatch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Cartier European Watch & Clock Co. Art Deco, 18K yellow gold, platinum, and diamond lady's wristwatch with 18K pink gold Cartier deployant clasp. The 16mm x 18mm bicolor case has a...
Category

Vintage 1920s Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

Cartier Platinum Diamond Art Deco Wristwatch, circa 1925
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
An extremely rare and well-preserved Art Deco vintage wristwatch by Cartier dating from Circa 1925. Pioneering designer Louis Cartier created a rectangular shaped watch, at a time ...
Category

Vintage 1920s Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum

Cartier Paris Platinum Diamond Onyx Art Deco Wristwatch, 1920s
By Cartier
Located in Geneva, CH
French private collection. Art Deco testimony by Cartier. This wristwatch is totally complete and in authentic condition. Platinum, Yellow Gold 18k 750 (Black enameled), Diamond (Ol...
Category

Vintage 1920s Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Platinum

Cartier Lady's Platinum, Gold and Diamond Art Deco Tonneau Wristwatch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Cartier platinum, diamond and 18K yellow gold Art Deco Tortue wristwatch, circa 1925. An extremely rare wristwatch with a grosgrain ribbon bracelet. The 20mm x 26mm tonneau case has...
Category

Early 20th Century Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Platinum, 18k Gold

Brand new Cartier Lady's White Gold Pasha Wristwatch with Diamond Grid
By Cartier
Located in Chicago, IL
Cartier lady's 18k white gold Pasha wristwatch with removable diamond grid, 32mm, automatic movement, white dial, white gold numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 on black alligator strap with ...
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Cartier Tortue Art Deco, 1913
By Cartier
Located in Monte Carlo, MC
Cartier Watch model Tortue in platinum set with diamonds and onyx. Year : 1913 Illustrated in "Collection Cartier Clocks" Edition Flamarion page 123. Cartier Box. (22 grs)
Category

Early 20th Century Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Platinum

Cartier Diamond Back Winder Wristwatch, Circa 1950
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
A Cartier, vintage, diamond-set back winder wristwatch, set with approximately 11.00ct of marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds, on a diamond-set bracelet. The back of the case i...
Category

Vintage 1950s Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Beautiful Platinum Diamond Art Deco Watch Diamond Bracelet
Located in Antwerp, BE
Beautiful Platinum Diamond Art Deco Watch Diamond Bracelet Movement:Mechanical Manual Winding Functions: Hours, minutes Material: Platinum Case: Case length 10 mm x Height 22.5...
Category

20th Century Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Cartier, Paris Art Deco Two-Color Gold Backwinder Wristwatch with Leather Band
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
An Art Deco two-color gold backwinder watch with a rectangular shaped face suspended by one oval lug and one triangular lug on a leather and gold bracelet band, in 18k. Cartier, Pari...
Category

Vintage 1920s Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

18k Gold, Gold

Art Deco Diamond Wristwatch
Located in Geneva, CH
Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Wristwatch. Black cord. Metal clasp Arabic numerals. Movement does not work. Art Deco. Circa 1920. Length: 17.00 cm. Gross weight: 17.62 grams.
Category

Vintage 1920s Art Deco Wrist Watches

Materials

Diamond

Featured in Most Coveted Designs

Daria
By Kristen Hatgi
Located in New York, NY
Listing is for UNFRAMED print. Inquire within for framing. Edition of 5. If the exhibition piece is sold or the customer orders a different print size, the photograph is produced ...
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Photography

Materials

C Print

Stunning Florian Schulz Double DUOS Brass Pendant Lamp with Side Counter Weights
By Florian Schulz
Located in Berlin, DE
Really beautiful Florian Schulz double posa pendant lamp with one E 27 / model a bulb in polished brass. Each lamp and newly wired.
Category

2010s German Mid-Century Modern Chandeliers and Pendants

Materials

Brass

after Henri Matisse - Sleeping Blue Nude - Lithograph
By (after) Henri Matisse
Located in Collonge Bellerive, Geneve, CH
after Henri MATISSE Edition of 200 with the printed signature, as issued 76 x 56 cm With stamp of the Succession Matisse References : Artvalue - Succession Matisse MATISSE'S BIOGRAP...
Category

1950s Modern Nude Prints

Materials

Lithograph

Three-Seat Sofa Mod. "Le Bambole" by Mario Bellini
By Mario Bellini
Located in Milan, IT
Three-seat sofa mod. "Le Bambole" by Mario Bellini Italy, circa 1972. Manufactured by B&B. Enlarged polyurethane, suede. Literature: Domus n. 515, ottobre 1972, pubblicità; Domus n. ...
Category

Vintage 1970s Italian Mid-Century Modern Sofas

Materials

Suede, Foam

Important VCA Art Deco Diamond Bow Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
An Important Art Deco diamond bow brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, the two hundred and eighty-seven old European-cut diamonds estimated to weigh 17 carats in total, millegrain-set in a ...
Category

Vintage 1920s Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Platinum

Recently Viewed

View More

The 1stDibs Promise

Learn More

Expertly Vetted Sellers

Confidence at Checkout

Price-Match Guarantee

Exceptional Support

Buyer Protection

Trusted Global Delivery