Martin Margiela 'Semi Couture' canvas sleeves, fw 1997
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Medium (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14022572743
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Alexander McQueen white patchwork rabbit and fox fur embroidered jacket, fw 2003By Alexander McQueenLocated in London, GB▪ Alexander McQueen white patchwork rabbit and fox fur jacket ▪ Fox fur trim at the hood, cuffs, and waist ▪ Bronze metal sequin embroidery throughout ▪ Large hood ▪ Zip fastening at the center-front ▪ IT 44 - FR 40 - UK 12 ▪ 100% Rabbit, 100% Fox Lining...Category
Early 2000s Italian Jackets
- Dolce & Gabbana lamé brocade double-breasted blazer jacket, ss 1993By Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GB▪ Dolce & Gabbana multicoloured double-breasted blazer jacket ▪ The textile consists of a patchwork of colourful lamé brocades and floral jacquards ▪ Large antique-style metal butto...Category
1990s Italian Blazers
- Dolce & Gabbana pink floral silk jacket and skirt ensemble, c. 1990sBy Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GBDolce & Gabbana hot pink silk ensemble with vibrant floral print throughout. Knee length jacket with leopard silk lining. Above the knee length pencil skirt. c. 1990sCategory
1990s Italian Skirt Suits
- Issey Miyake black nylon oversized parachute coat, fw 1987By Issey MiyakeLocated in London, GBIssey Miyake; Black nylon oversized parachute coat with batwing sleeves and two front pockets Fall-Winter 1987Category
1990s Japanese Jackets
- Comme des Garçons Deconstructed 4-Sleeve Jacket with Pleated Skirt, fw 2006By Comme des GarçonsLocated in London, GB▪ A Rare Comme des Garçons Deconstructed Four-Sleeve Jacket ▪ Creative Director: Rei Kawakubo ▪ Fall-Winter 2006 ▪ Sold by One of a Kind Archive ▪ Crafted from a deep navy blue wool...Category
Early 2000s Japanese Jackets
- Dolce & Gabbana unisex red leather coach jacket, ss 2002By Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GB▪ Dolce & Gabbana unisex red leather coach jacket ▪ Sold by One of a Kind Archive ▪ Spring-Summer 2002 ▪ White leather '56' appliqués with navy border ▪...Category
Early 2000s Italian Jackets
- Chanel Blended Cotton Openwork Jacket Representing White Flowers, 2009By ChanelLocated in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FRChanel - (Made in France) Blended cotton openwork jacket representing white flowers. Indicated size 46FR. Cruise 2009 Collection. Additional information: Condition: Very good condit...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Jackets
- Supreme SS16 Apex Taped Seam White JacketBy SupremeLocated in Bear, DESupreme Apex Taped Seam White Jacket SS16 Size Large Great condition (view all pics; some markings) Measurements: Chest: 25” Length: 29.5” Shoulders: 22.75” Sleeve length: 25” All ...Category
2010s Anoraks and Parkas
- Hermès White Goatskin GiletBy HermèsLocated in London, GBFeaturing 100% goatskin and fur, Hermès' leatherwork really shines. It is also a short fit, high neck and has a detachable belt at the waist.Category
21st Century and Contemporary Vests
- 1960's white lace evening jacket with rhinestone and beads embroideriesLocated in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR1960's white lace evening jacket with rhinestone and beads embroideries . Edge to edge, close with hook&eye. Silk lining. SIZE MCategory
1960s North American Dinner Jackets
- Thierry Mugler Saharan Sahara Wasp Waist Bee Belt Brown Cream Coat Blazer JacketBy Thierry MuglerLocated in PARIS, FRBeautiful piece by Thierry Mugler! with shoulder pads! Wonderful silhouette! Wasp Waist look. MUGLER metal belt! Saharan stlye! VERY GOOD Condition. SIZE Medium. No size label. Le...Category
1990s Coats
- 1970s Charm of Hollywood Ivory Off White Crochet Sheer Vintage Maxi Duster VestLocated in San Diego, CABoho chic 70s CHARM OF HOLLYWOOD ivory linen and cotton crochet duster vest ! Buttons up the front. Great with jeans and a tank or over a swimsuit. In great...Category
1970s American Vests
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.