Issey Miyake blue knit jersey convertible sweater and pants set, c. 1980s
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: S (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14021981443
Issey Miyake
From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Margiela brown tweed wool pant suit with matching saddle bag, fw 1998By Maison Martin MargielaLocated in London, GBMartin Margiela; brown tweed wool pant suit with matching saddle bag. Fall-Winter 1998Category
1990s Italian Trouser Pant Suits
- Azzedine Alaia Indigo cotton denim lace up bra top and shorts, ss 1991By Azzedine AlaïaLocated in London, GBAzzedine Alaia Indigo cotton denim bra top and mini shorts with cream lace fastenings. Spring-Summer 1991Category
1990s Italian Twin Sets
- Dolce & Gabbana navy feathered pant suit, fw 1990By Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GBDolce & Gabbana navy cotton spandex pant suit comprising: wide cut button up blouse with fitted sleeves and feathered collar, and fitted high waisted pants. Fall-Winter 1990Category
1990s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Jean Paul Gaultier blue wool and velvet cape jacket, skirt and scarf, fw 1984By Jean Paul GaultierLocated in London, GBJean Paul Gaultier blue wool ensemble comprising: cape jacket with black velvet sleeves and large button fastening, ruched ankle length skirt and matching scarf. Fall-Winter 1984Category
1980s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Vivienne Westwood black velvet corset and pants ensemble, fw 1992By Vivienne WestwoodLocated in London, GBVivienne Westwood black velvet corset and pants ensemble. Fall-Winter 1992Category
1990s British Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- John Galliano black and white skirt suit, ss 2000By John GallianoLocated in London, GBJohn Galliano black and white skirt suit comprising: v-neck ruched vest and maxi skirt with front and back high leg slit. Spring-Summer 2000Category
1990s French Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Patrick Kelly Early 1980's B&W Skirt Suit with CorsetBy Patrick KellyLocated in New York, NYPatrick Kelly Early 1980's B&W Skirt Suit with Corset. This is a super fun three-piece skirt suit in a black and white leopard print pattern. This set is fearlessly bold, reminiscent...Category
1980s Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Claude Montana Pant SuitBy Claude MontanaLocated in Los Angeles, CACharcoal grey pant suit. Woven leather trim. Belted. Shoulder pads. Side zipper on pants. Lined. Made in Italy. *Condition: Excellent vintage conditio...Category
1980s Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- 1970s Maggie Reeves Demi Couture Navy Blue Velvet and Silk 3 pc. EnsembleBy Maggie ReevesLocated in Toronto, Ontario1970s three piece navy blue ensemble by Canadian demi couture designer Maggie Reeves. Velvet blazer with a silk lapels, embellished rhinestone button details and matching single butt...Category
1970s Canadian Skirt Suits
- Early Alexander McQueen Joan of Arc 1998 AW98 Runway Catwalk Dress Suit CostumeBy Alexander McQueenLocated in PARIS, FRIconic Alexander McQueen runway suit from Joan of Arc autumn winter 1998 Collection! Piece of art! Wonderful silhouette! Red McQueen Silk lining Bottons on the sleeves Shoulder pads 2 pockets The show was inspired by Joan of Arc who led the French army to victory in a battle against the English in the 15th century. She was later captured, found guilty of heresy and burned at the stake...Category
1990s Italian Skirt Suits
- 1980s Roberto Cavalli Textured Leather & Lace Crystal Embellished JumpsuitBy Roberto CavalliLocated in TARRAGONA, ESRoberto Cavalli vintage 1980s leather jumpsuit of a dramatic hourglass silhouette, with a low-cut back and sleek rhinestone embellishments. Fashioned in lightweight fine leather with...Category
1980s Italian Jumpsuits
- Anthracite striped wool and cotton double-breasted skirt suit Studio FerréBy Gianfranco FerréLocated in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FRAnthracite striped wool and cotton double-breasted skirt suit. Fabric composition: 77% wool, 23% cotton.Lining: 63% acetate, 37% cupro. Shoulder pads. Pockets on both side on the j...Category
1980s Italian Skirt Suits
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.
Vivienne Westwood’s Punk Spirit Lives On in This ’90s Tartan Ensemble
The shorts suit in a mash-up of patterns with an asymmetrical cut speaks to the designer’s rebellious spirit.