Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 6

1941 ChanelRelevant American Reinad ArtDecoStyle Silver PolkaDot LargeBow Brooch

About the Item

In Spring 1941 after French fashion couturier Gabriel "Coco" Chanel had stopped production of her clothing designs while she remained in Europe during the WWII era, the decades-old American costume-jewelry company Reinad began imprinting pieces in its new retail line, Chanel Novelty Co, with the script signature "Chanel". As this was prior to the use of the sans-serif capital-letter signature "CHANEL" on French-made jewelry that was commissioned by the Parisian designer, as well as before U.S.-copyright protection began in 1955, the House of Chanel that was mostly owned by the Jewish Wertheimer family of venture capitalists (who remarkably still produced Parfums CHANEL and French-vineyard wine via legal proxy while they lived in asylum in The States during the war) filed a U.S. lawsuit to demand that Reinad halt the use of its founder's famous last name. As the Werthheimers' quickly won, Reinad only produced the single seasonal collection stamped with the French brand name, and subsequently only imprinted its company name as the sans-serif capital-letter signature "REINAD" without a copyright symbol, which was different that its prior signatures dating back to its founding in 1922. When Chanel herself resumed French-made fashion production in Paris in 1953 (with Werthheimer support leading to their acquisition of all rights to her name despite her post-war eight-year exile in Switzerland due to close association with Nazis), for the first time all of her creations were signed "CHANEL" like the original packaging of the exceedingly profitable "No.5" perfume. While Reinad continued to produced costume jewelry until 1954, in the last decade of this business, the U.S. company continued to try to appeal to potential Chanel buyers by at least making Chanel-style designs. As such, owning an attractive and well-made Reinad piece can be considered a useful investment in fashion history as evidence of a little-known turning-point involving the most famous ongoing luxury-fashion business Chanel, as well as of the impact of that legal judgement had on advancing U.S. design protection for brands that later used the copyright symbol. Like early ArtDeco-style oversized heavy metallic costume jewelry by Chanel, this three-dimensional monochrome silver-alloy polkadot bow brooch imitates a pale polkadot-textured ribbon. Notably, while high-quality ribbon for styling hair or decorating clothing in a non-functional way was still an expensive accessory for special occasions a century ago, Chanel made extensive use of the large-bow motif in her couture clothing and costume-jewelry ensembles since the 1920s. As an appropriation of the tuxedo bow-tie accessory for men when it instantly connoted being rich and powerful, she often tied a monochrome silk ribbon around her head to pull back her hair. She so frequently used a bow to adorn her models and clients throughout her career that it became an iconic symbol of the brand.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Rhodium,Silver,Base Metal
  • Weight:
    40 g
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 3.25 in (82.55 mm)Length: 3 in (76.2 mm)
  • Style:
    Art Deco
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
    1940-1949
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1941-1954
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244221663802
More From This SellerView All
  • HenrySchreiner EarlySet ProngSetCrystal Silver Spray Tiered Earrings & Brooch
    By Henry Schreiner
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Henry Schreiner, the Austrian-born blacksmith founder of Schreiner in New York in 1932, handcrafted this demi-parure of prong-set clear crystal stylized-foliage sprays after he began...
    Category

    Vintage 1940s American Victorian Brooches

    Materials

    Crystal, Diamond, Rhodium, Silver

  • Couture 1937-40 ElsaSchiaparelli MarcelVertes HarlequinDuck GlazedCeramic Brooch
    By Elsa Schiaparelli
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Between the first ad campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937, and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade in Paris, while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce, this whimsical red-glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with turquoise and a bit of black glaze. Significantly, the brooch-pin trombone clasp, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's fashion shows themed "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domestic white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, the fashion designer had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet. Another relevant Met acquisition of a Schiaparelli couture...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Artisan Brooches

    Materials

    Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

  • Couture 1930s CocoChanel LinaBaretti SatinBlackCamellias PaveCrystals Gold Set
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This rare signed couture set of pave-crystal and gold-plated brooch and earrings from the Art Deco period is marked in the manner of one-off costume jewelry commissioned...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Brooches

    Materials

    Crystal, Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

  • ArtDeco c1925 Bakelite TriColor RedBlueGreen Carved Ribbon Bow BrassPinBrooch
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Antique ArtDeco-period Bakelite rare three-color ribbon bow hand-blended-and-carved brooch. Given the colors, narrow style, texture and affixed brass pin...
    Category

    Vintage 1920s Unknown Art Deco Brooches

    Materials

    Brass

  • Antique Amuletic DozenRockCrystals CagedRing MedievalStyle GiltBronze Pendant
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This antique amuletic bronze framed pendant cages a dozen 7mm-diameter single-cut rock crystals that each feature a table-cut decagon crown, deep pavilion, 21 facets and uncut girdle, while the culets range from off-center to blunted. They are tightly set within four linked rings to overlap at the same angle in a sparkling single row. Seeming to retain a little of its original yellow-gold gilding on just the interior, the frame that surrounds each of the four sections of three crystals enables them to reflect pale-yellow-and-lime light when the pendant is viewed from certain angles. Suggesting French heritage, the Medieval Frankish culture in northern France made jewelry in similar segmented or openwork shapes of wheels or whorls, which were worn as gem-decorated disk-shaped brooches or gold-caged rock...
    Category

    Antique 18th Century French Renaissance Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gilt Metal, Bronze, Copper

  • Couture CocoChanel Byzantine ThePurpleHeart PearlAmethystQuartz GoldMedallion
    By Chanel
    Located in Chicago, IL
    During the ArtDeco period when Gabriel "Coco" Chanel was at her peak as a Parisian couture fashion-designer in the early 1930s, this antique one-of-a-kind handcrafted gem-fringed and gilt-chain medallion brooch with trombone clasp was commissioned to accessorize one of her clothing designs. Marked only "FRANCE" like some early 1930s Chanel couture jewelry (without a brand stamp until the 1950s), its artistic origin is most likely from ornate organic-form sketches by her favorite parurer Fulco di Verdura. The Sicilian duke began creating fabric patterns for Chanel in 1927, which shortly expanded to fine jewelry beginning with custom pieces for herself. These include the iconic Byzantine-influenced gem-adorned cuffs referencing the Maltese military-cross, which the French designer can often be seen wearing in circa-1930s photos. This bright yellow-gold brooch suits goldsmith Verdura's early anti-Art-Deco aesthetic that was considered a radical departure from 1920s silver-tone jewelry, which otherwise featured linear geometric designs or figurative representation. The softly-shaped deconstructed gem-bouquet mixes amethyst and rose-quartz beads with natural Keshi pearls and intricate tiny gilt leaves, which are wired to a Baroque-motif open-work frame that dangles another gem surrounded by a thick gilt-rope halo. Notably, Verdura is credited with re-introducing since Victorian times the rope motif to jewelry. Since 1930, Verdura's unique style was influenced by travels with Chanel to explore Byzantine art, Baroque architecture, and exotic flora-and-fauna among his native Italian aristocratic estate. The legendary fashion-editor Diane Vreeland and American entertainment-stars were among the first Chanel clients to acquire couture real-gem-adorned jewelry made by Verdura, while one of the two brooches treasured by Vreeland was titled "Theodora". See our photo of the Byzantine mosaic of Empress Theodora, whose image wearing many teardrop pearls above her chest and surrounded by a golden halo seems to be the inspiration for this brooch. As one of the most important modern-design collaborations, Chanel's close relationship with Verdura lasted largely-undocumented years in Paris, until he launched his first outside jewelry venture with a Hollywood designer-boutique after emigrating to the United States in 1934. By 1939 as a financially-backed in-demand goldsmith, he founded the namesake jewelry-company Verdura in NYC. After he retired in 1973, the brand continued to operate without him with different owners. Given the duo's designs that played with historic and military references, Chanel's couture commission for this purple medallion may have been sparked in the early 1930s when the internationally-new...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Brooches

    Materials

    Amethyst, Pearl, Quartz, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

You May Also Like
  • Enamel, 14 Karat Yellow Gold Retrò Brooch
    Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)
    SHIPPING POLICY: No additional costs will be added to this order. Shipping costs will be totally covered by the seller (customs duties included). PS: THIS POLICY IS NOT APPLICABLE ...
    Category

    Antique Early 1800s Italian Retro Brooches

    Materials

    Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

  • Deco Platinum Brooch Set with 1.0ct of F/VS Baguette + 1.5ct of Round Diamonds
    By Unbranded
    Located in London, GB
    Deco Platinum Brooch Set With 1.0ct of F/VS Baguette + 1.5ct of Round Diamonds. Additional Information: Total Weight: 12.1g Total Diamond Weight: 2.50ct Diamond Colour: E/G Diamond ...
    Category

    20th Century British Brooches

    Materials

    Diamond, Platinum

  • Stickpin
    Located in Orimattila, FI
    According to the picture. I don't know what material. It's old.
    Category

    Mid-20th Century Unknown Early Victorian Brooches

    Stickpin
    Free Shipping
  • Vintage Carved Bird Coral Diamond Brooch/Pendant 14 Kt Large Size
    Located in Napoli, IT
    Antique Coral Treasures This large sized Brooch Pendant is of remarkable beauty, post 1900 – Italian origin Hand crafted of solid 14 KT – marked The body set with a large oval piece of natural Coral...
    Category

    Antique Early 1900s Italian Edwardian Brooches

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, 14k Gold

  • Certified Red Coral, Icy Apple Green Jade & Diamond Koi Fish Pendant and Brooch
    Located in Hong Kong, HK
    Please check out the HD video! This item can be used as a pendant or a brooch! This is a very well carved natural red coral Koi fish matched with glowing icy apple green jade and diamonds. There are 2 certificates, one for the natural red coral and one for the natural jadeite. The lines and details of this piece are outstanding. This natural jadeite Jade used...
    Category

    2010s Hong Kong Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

  • Certified Red Coral Icy Apple Green Jade and Diamond Koi Fish Pendant and Brooch
    Located in Hong Kong, HK
    Please check out the HD video! This item can be used as a pendant or a brooch! This is a very well carved natural red coral Koi fish matched with glowing icy apple green jade and diamonds. There are 2 certificates, one for the natural red coral and one for the natural jadeite. The lines and details of this piece are outstanding. This natural jadeite Jade used...
    Category

    2010s Hong Kong Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold

Recently Viewed

View All