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Trifari 1940s Philippe 4PieceParure CrystalFloraMotif GoldNecklaceEarringsBrooch
About the Item
In the late 1940s, Trifari's French-born artistic director Alfred Philippe, who had earlier created fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, designed this flora-motif crystal-set yellow-gold-plated parure. The rare "patent pending" four-piece set without a post-1955 copyright symbol includes a serpentine-link necklace with sliding pendant, plus complimentary brooch and pair of French-clip earrings.
With high-end jewelry crafting experience, Philippe was the first to introduce luxurious invisible settings to costume jewelry, which made his selection of high-quality crystals appear like some of the most expensive gems such as diamonds. Like this parure, such "invisibly-set diamante" pieces are among the most collectible and thus highest priced.
The large pendant features six marquise rhinestones in a sinuous leaf shape accented by four single-cut round crystals for more sparkle around the reflective twisting stem-like frame. The pendant measures nearly 1.75-inches long by 1.25-inches wide, while the diameter of its choker chain when fastened is 5 inches.
The stylized-leaf earrings each showcase three smaller marquise crystals set within a twisted heart-shape frame with three baguettes on its upright stem. Each earring measures 1.25-inches long by 0.75-inch wide.
The swirled-frame brooch depicts a stylized orchid with marquises as flowers and rose-cut crystals as buds, along with five baguettes on two curved leaves emerging from the twisted stem. It measures 1.75-inches long by 1.25-inches wide.
The brooch fastens with a safety-clasp pin on the back, where a cartouche is stamped with the crown-symbol over the capital-letter text "Trifari Pat.Pend.". The necklace fastens with a tiny fold-over clasp stamped on the bottom with the same text. The exterior of each earring clip is engraved with a crown-symbol over the brand name, while the interior is stamped "Pat.Pend.".
After the crown was added above the "T" as the brand signature in the early 1940s, it could always be found during Philippe's tenure on at least one piece in a parure that had enough space to discretely include it. This symbol pays homage to one of Philippe's most popular designs since he joined Trifari in 1930--a crown-shaped brooch.
- Creator:
- Metal:Gold,Gold Plate,Yellow Gold
- Stone:Crystal,Diamond
- Stone Cut:Mixed Cut
- Dimensions:Diameter: 5 in (127 mm)Length: 16 in (406.4 mm)
- Sold As:Set of 3
- Style:Art Deco
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:Mid-20th Century
- Date of Manufacture:late 1940s
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244219098582
About the Seller
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Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
11 sales on 1stDibs
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- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
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