Issey Miyake multicoloured four-piece layered pleated dress, ss 1993
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Medium (JP)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU140213397662
Issey Miyake
From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Jean Paul Gaultier navy striped nylon mesh tube dress and cardigan set, c. 2001By Jean Paul GaultierLocated in London, GB▪ Jean Paul Gaultier tube dress and cardigan set ▪ Sold by One of a Kind Archive ▪ Nylon mesh with navy blue and white stripes and a graf...Category
Early 2000s French Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Ossie Clark angel-sleeve drawstring dress with print by Celia Birtwell, ss 1971By Ossie ClarkLocated in London, GB▪ Ossie Clark angel-sleeve dress ▪ 'Busy Lizzie' floral print by Celia Birtwell ▪ Pink and green with black ground ▪ Loose fit ▪ Drawstring fastening a...Category
1970s British Day Dresses
- Gucci by Tom Ford bottle green pintuck leather shift dress, fw 1999By Gucci, Tom Ford for GucciLocated in London, GB▪ Gucci bottle green leather shift dress ▪ Designed by Tom Ford ▪ Pintuck detail ▪ Three-quarter circular flounce sleeves ▪ Black leather rosette on sle...Category
1990s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld metallic silver leather sheath dress, fw 1999By Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld for ChanelLocated in London, GB▪ Chanel metallic silver lambskin leather sheath dress ▪ Designed by Karl Lagerfeld ▪ V-neck ▪ 2 front pockets ▪ Top stitch seams with raw edge ▪ Curved seaming accentuates the wai...Category
1990s French Evening Dresses and Gowns
- BodyMap black viscose cotton jersey maxi dress, c. 1980sLocated in London, GB▪ BodyMap black jersey maxi dress ▪ 52% Viscose, 48% Cotton ▪ Three front button fastenings belted at the hips ▪ High neck with elastic collar ▪ Size Medium ▪ c. 1980sCategory
1980s British Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Jean Paul Gaultier fringed silk macramé dress, ss 2000By Jean Paul GaultierLocated in London, GB▪ Jean Paul Gaultier silk macramé dress ▪ Sold by One of a Kind Archive ▪ Spring-Summer 2000 ▪ Constructed from multicoloured printed silk ribbons ▪ Fri...Category
Early 2000s Italian Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Spring 2020 Look #42 LIME SATIN STRAPLESS DRESS as seen as Selena 40 - 4By VersaceLocated in Montgomery, TXVERSACE Spring 2020 Look #42 Bright lime green stretch satin mini dress from Versace with off-shoulders design, lateral gathered detail with golden buttons embellishment. lime ...Category
2010s Italian Day Dresses
- Junko Koshino Vintage 1980s 80s Yellow Knit Asymmetric Sweater DressBy Junko KoshinoLocated in Sparks, NVRare vintage knit dress by Junko Koshino. Asymmetric hemline and yellow, black and silver striped design. Details: Unlined Shoulder Pads Can Be Removed If Desired No Closure/ Fabri...Category
1980s Japanese Mini Dresses
- Gattinoni Yellow Silk Chiffon High Low Evening Dress w CutoutBy GattinoniLocated in Portland, ORThis is an incredible Italian yellow silk high low dress with soutache bust detail from Gattinoni. We love the beautiful textures and different silks used for this dress. This has an...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Evening Dresses
- 1990s Gianni Versace Couture Yellow Silk & Linen Summer Dress 40By Gianni Versace CoutureLocated in Switzerland, CHCanary-yellow silk and linen mix summer dress by Gianni Versace Couture Closes in front with hidden buttons Shown on runway show and in the AD campaign with Gisele Fully lined Two fr...Category
1990s Italian Informal Dresses
- Chic 1960s Seaton Enterprises Ltd. Vintage Large Size Yellow 60s A Line DressLocated in San Diego, CAChic vintage 1960s SEATON ENTERPRISES LTD. Couture canary yellow beaded and rhinestone A-Line dress! Textured yellow cotton rayon blend, with th...Category
1960s Hong Kong Cocktail Dresses
- Vintage Escada Dress in a Yellow Floral Silk Print by Margaretha Ley Size 8/10By Escada, Escada Margaretha LeyLocated in Portland, ORThis is such a pretty Escada vintage dress, in a rich yellow silk print with beautiful tropical flowers in shades of pink, fuchsia, blue, orange and purple. The dress has cap sleeve...Category
Late 20th Century German Informal Dresses
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.
Vivienne Westwood’s Punk Spirit Lives On in This ’90s Tartan Ensemble
The shorts suit in a mash-up of patterns with an asymmetrical cut speaks to the designer’s rebellious spirit.