Georges L'Enfant Burma Ruby Bracelet, circa 1950s

Name: Georges L'Enfant Burma Ruby Bracelet, circa 1950s
Brand: Georges L'Enfant
Price: 29700 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

Sometimes a simple design is best when showing off gorgeous gemstones. Here the cabochon rubies are the stars of the show, supported attractively by an openwork link chain. The oval and rectangle shapes play off each other nicely. The Georges L'Enfant Vintage Mid-Century Burmese Ruby Bracelet is made in France in the Mid-20th century, circa 1950s, and features 6 oval-shape cabochon rubies set in platinum. The rubies are accompanied by a report from GGTL, stating that they are natural corundum rubies of Burmese (Myanmar) origin with no indication of thermal treatment. The 7.5-inch-long (19.05 cm) bracelet is stamped with maker's marks consistent with Georges L'Enfant. Rubies can command the highest per-carat price of any colored stone. This makes the ruby one of the more important gems in the colored stone market. Natural unheated rubies like these command a premium due to their rarity, and Burmese rubies arguably are considered the finest in the world, making the stones in this bracelet quite prized. The ruby is one variety of the corundum mineral species, which also includes sapphire. In its purest form, the mineral corundum is colorless. Chromium is the trace element that becomes part of the mineral’s crystal structure which causes the ruby’s red. The strength of ruby’s red depends on how much chromium is present—the more chromium, the stronger the red color. Burmese rubies have a special historical appeal and generally display a richer and more appealing red color. The settings for the rubies are pleasingly geometric—4 sets of double prongs placed at ordinal points around the oval stones create the illusion of squaring off the roundness and relate nicely to the elongated oval links of the platinum chain. Georges L'Enfant’s mastery of economy of form is beautifully demonstrated in the two sets of double-prongs to the right and left of each stone which segue into fluted links, adding a nice textural element to the minimalist composition. Georges L'Enfant was a master goldsmith, chain-maker, and a hugely skilled designer and manufacturer. He made jewelry for many of the top Parisian houses on the Place Vendôme and Rue de la Paix, especially Cartier. He was fascinated by the art of the goldsmith and the myriad different patterns, shapes, and textures that could be used to create a seemingly infinite array of chains. During the 1960s and 1970s, the L’Enfant workshop produced many beautiful gold chain bracelets and necklaces which is perhaps what they are best known for today. Measures approx. 7.5” in length. 6 oval cabochon Burmese rubies, with no heat treatment are certified by GGTL. Overall weight approx. 19.5 grams, crafted in platinum, 19.50g. Made in France, Signed Georges L'Enfant; circa 1950s.

Creator:

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Dimensions:

Length: 7.5 in (190.5 mm)

Lab Report Available:

GGTL

Place of Origin:

France

Period:

Mid-20th Century

Date of Manufacture:

1950s

Condition:

Seller Location:

New York, NY

Reference Number:

Seller: B13261stDibs: LU330218108562

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Georges L'Enfant

Known as one of the finest goldsmiths of the 20th century, Georges L’Enfant was widely admired for his workmanship and innovative designs. His atelier forged collaborations with a lengthy list of illustrious jewelry houses, including Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Hermès, to name a few.

L’Enfant was born to a family of jewelers and goldsmiths. He served several apprenticeships and studied jewelry-making in Paris and abroad as a youth. He later returned to France and set up his own workshop around 1900.

At his Paris shop, at 47 Rue des Petits-Champs, L’Enfant became known for his elegant diamond rings, finely crafted gold jewelry and vivid gemstone bracelets and drop necklaces. He registered his maker’s mark in 1909, and in 1915, L’Enfant’s 11-year-old son Jacques joined the business.

In 1927, goldsmith and jewelry manufacturer Gustave-Roger Sandoz sold his company to L’Enfant, provided Sandoz’s son Gerard could retain his role as creative director. With Gerard, L’Enfant produced an extensive series of art moderne jewelry.

Following World War II, Jacques took over his father’s company and continued to use the Georges L’Enfant maker’s mark. Throughout the 1950s, the business collaborated with Vacheron Constantin on a luxury watch line. The brand enjoyed long-established partnerships with Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Hermès and René Boivin, among others.

In the 1960s and 1970s, Jacques designed a collection of 18-karat gold chain bracelets, link bracelets and link necklaces, many of which featured delicate gold braiding. From that point on, braided and link-style pieces became the L’Enfant company’s signature and remain highly collectible items among gold-jewelry connoisseurs today. In 2003, the Georges L’Enfant brand ceased production after the firm Bouder took ownership in a buyout, making its existing baubles even more covetable.

On 1stDibs, discover a range of antique and vintage Georges L’Enfant brooches, bracelets and necklaces.