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Erte - Romain de TirtoffCouronne de laurier by ErtéCirca 1939
Circa 1939
About the Item
Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French
Couronne de laurier
The Laurel Wreath
Signed "Erté"(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 34.3" (en verso)
Gouache on paper
Erté conceived an extraordinarily imaginative costume featuring a laurel wreath for Jean Cocteau's renowned theatrical work,Les Monstres Sacrés. The play gained considerable acclaim and contributed to the widespread use of the French term "monstre sacré," denoting an individual of unparalleled excellence in their domain. The costume, envisioned by Erté, serves as an independent artistic expression, embellished with the laurel wreath--a classical emblem of victory and accomplishment. Complemented by a cascading skirt of purple fabric, the costume stands as a striking representation of Art Deco aesthetics.
The term "monster" in this context diverges from its conventional connotation of a fearsome creature. As a nod to the Classical motif of the lauren wearth, the term originates from the Latin word "monstrum," which carries multiple meanings, including "prodigy" and "divine omen." In English, one might liken it to a "giant," a term that similarly conveys both mythical and metaphorical significance.
Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city's bustling nightlife. Erté's expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper's Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the "Father of Art Deco," Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Circa 1939
Paper: 14" high by 10 1/2" wide
Frame: 20 3/4" high by 16 7/8" wide by 5/8" deep
Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024
Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans
- Creator:Erte - Romain de Tirtoff (1892 - 1990, Russian)
- Creation Year:Circa 1939
- Dimensions:Height: 20.75 in (52.71 cm)Width: 16.875 in (42.87 cm)Depth: 0.625 in (1.59 cm)
- Medium:
- Movement & Style:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Gallery Location:New Orleans, LA
- Reference Number:
Erte - Romain de Tirtoff
Erté, Romain de Tirtoff, (1892–1990) was a Russian-born French artist and designer who is equally famous for his elegant fashion designs and his artwork, both of which capture the art deco period in which he worked. Diversely talented, Erté was born in Saint Petersburg to a distinguished family with roots tracing back to 1548. After moving to Paris, he secured his first substantial contract with Harper's Bazaar magazine, and thus launched an illustrious career that included designing costumes and stage sets. Between 1915–1937, Erte designed over 200 covers for Harper's Bazaar, and his illustrations would also appear in such publications as Illustrated London News, Cosmopolitan, Ladies' Home Journal, and Vogue. Erté flourished and was renowned in an array of fields, including fashion, jewelry, graphic arts, costume and set design for film, theater, and opera, and interior decor.
After designing apparel for the French dancer Gaby Deslys, Erté went on to design costumes, program designs, and sets which were featured in the Ziegfeld Follies of 1923, many productions of the Folies Bergère, and George White's Scandals. On Broadway, the celebrated French chanteuse Irène Bordoni wore Erté's designs. His delicate figures and sophisticated, glamorous designs are instantly recognizable, and his ideas and art still influence fashion into the 21st century.
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