Carlos Zipperer

New York City’s maverick handbag designer, the Brazilian-born Carlos Falchi, began his multibillion-dollar accessories brand in the bathtub of his Greenwich Village apartment.

In the 1960s, Falchi started by making leather clothing — bleaching snakeskin in his tub — for rock stars and jazz artists like Mick Jagger, Tina Turner and Miles Davis. But when he turned his attention to handbags, persuaded by Geraldine Stultz, the president of Henri Bendel, he found his true calling.

In a world flush with iconic “It” handbags, Falchi’s bags are distinctive and eye-catching, with soft, pliable forms, dazzling patchwork designs and dyed skins from exotic animals such as alligators, frogs, buffalo and water snakes. Even though he was a self-taught artisan, Falchi managed to reinvent the approach that yields the stiff, formal structure typically associated with the upright handbags of European luxury houses. His groundbreaking and oft-imitated Buffalo bag, an unconstructed and lightweight satchel made from a single skin with only two seams and a gathered front, went on to garner universal success for the craftsman, with Women’s Wear Daily deeming it “the most copied bag in the industry.” For his celebrated slouchy bag, Falchi was inspired by the draping techniques he learned while attending art school in Japan. In 1983, he won a Coty American Fashion Critics Award for the accessory.

Falchi made his clutches, shoulder bags and top-handled bags by hand in his New York City atelier, and the designer’s work garnered praise from fashion legends such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Barbra Streisand and Sarah Jessica Parker. In the years leading up to his death in 2015, Falchi began to sell inexpensive versions of his handbags on the Home Shopping Channel. A sampling of his work is held today in the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Find a range of vintage Carlos Falchi handbags and purses on 1stDibs.

An integral part of fashion, handbags and purses have been indispensable accessories ever since we began to carry around personal items. Level of craftsmanship, style and shape matters — from coin purses in ancient Greece to early 20th-century opera bags and onward, handbags have evolved considerably over the years to meet our needs and desires, whether or not you happen to be prioritizing functionality over a flashy exterior.

Once, a single “It” handbag ruled each fashion season. No more. Today, lovers of vintage handbags are savvier and have a wider range of shopping options. Nevertheless, classics created by the likes of Louis Vuitton, Dior and Balenciaga still rule.

“It is not a fashion bag — it is a statement bag,” says Mightychic's Debra Kent of Hermès's widely beloved accessories. “When you carry an iconic Hermès bag — Birkin, Kelly, Constance — no one knows how long you have been into this culture or if you are a newbie. Your status is validated immediately.”

First released in 1997, Fendi's Baguette rose to fame along with Carrie Bradshaw, the Sex and the City character portrayed by Sarah Jessica Parker. Recently, the design has seen such a resurgence in popularity that Fendi has reissued it.

They are part of design history, so owning a handbag has meaning. As New York–based fashion historian Sarah C. Byrd says, “You have made the choice to invest in this piece because you understand the value of it in the past and in the future to come.”

From a 1980s Chanel black leather quilted mini buckle bag to the rare Hermès Birkin 30cm Himalayan with diamond hardware to a range of 19th-century bags, find a rich variety of vintage and designer handbags and purses spanning numerous brands on 1stDibs — seasonal “It” designation no longer needed.