Armani Mens 1990s

Fashion may be a fluid industry that evolves with the times, but few designers were gutsy enough to break with the norms and endeavor to revolutionize it the way Piacenza, Italy, native Giorgio Armani did.

When he established his brand with his personal and professional partner, architect Sergio Galeotti, in 1975, Armani created jackets, evening dresses and other clothing that sharply departed from the form-fitting designs that his competitors were producing. Working with a subdued color palette and light fabrics, Armani instead pioneered power dressing. By the early 1980s, the designer was lauded for his sleek but relaxed-fit shirts in washed greens and beige tones for men and elegant, broad-shouldered suits for career-minded women. His collections were intended to fit naturally but confer a sense of confidence on the wearer, and the designs were just as luxurious as the garments that were gliding down Milanese catwalks at the time.

Armani, a shipping manager’s son, spent his childhood wanting to become a doctor, and he even studied medicine briefly at the University of Milan before dropping out and joining the army. In the late 1950s, he was hired as a window dresser at the Milan department store La Rinascente before moving into the role of menswear buyer. When he realized that his calling was in fashion design, not buying, he left La Rinascente to train at Nino Cerruti’s atelier and eventually began to take on what became a wealth of freelance design work.

At Galeotti’s urging, Armani opened his own design office in 1973, and two years later, he established his eponymous label of ready-to-wear for both men and women that challenged fashion’s traditional silhouettes and the conventions of tailoring.

“I was the first to soften the image of men and harden the image of women,” Armani has said of his early years. The designer dressed men in soft textures such as silk and linen that were traditionally relegated to feminine garments and designed power suits for women — an audacious and undeniably androgynous take on high fashion that was well received by critics. He won the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1979 and launched a diffusion line called Armani Collezioni that year. While his collections for men and women gained legions of admirers in Europe, it wasn’t until the premiere of the film American Gigolo — featuring heartthrob Richard Gere exclusively outfitted in a crisp, sleek and sexy Armani wardrobe — that the brand took off in the United States.

Today, Armani is still designing ready-to-wear collections, and the luxury house has expanded over the years into home decor, hospitality and more. In February 2020, at the onset of the Covid-19 crisis, Armani was the first fashion house to close its runway shows to the public in order to limit exposure. In early 2022, the brand was among the first to cancel men’s and haute couture shows scheduled in January.

Find vintage Giorgio Armani clothing on 1stDibs.

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.

If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”

If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.

The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.

For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”

“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”

Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.” 

Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.

Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”

Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”

Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.

Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.

Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.

From museum-worthy vintage Oscar de la Renta evening dresses and jackets to audacious T-shirts and trousers from provocative punk designer Vivienne Westwood, one thing is abundantly clear: If the clothing available on 1stDibs could talk, it would certainly make a statement. 

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers — think Galliano and Cavalli — but maybe ‘80s accessories are among your (guilty?) pleasures. Playful, boldly colored coats and outerwear from Moschino and other titans of the era can take a simpler ensemble to the next level, while chic and practical suits from the likes of Christian Dior and Chanel remain classic for haute couture advocates and beyond. By exploring the vast array of vintage collections on these pages, you can transform your closet into a retreat that is as retro as it is royal. 

Velvet cocktail dresses and silk evening gowns designed by French-born American couturiere Pauline Trigère — who dressed Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor — have proven timeless since their mid-century debut, while an overcoat by Alexander McQueen is the perfect finishing touch. In fact, an emerald one stays in rotation for Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge.

Those seeking modern high-fashion brands are also in luck. Turn your day-to-day into a runway with selections from Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace or complete that fresh look with stunning footwear classics from the likes of Gucci and Christian Louboutin. The future — and glamorous past — of fashion is yours for the wearing. 

Build your collection of covetable and iconic vintage garments by shopping on 1stDibs. No matter where you roam, our diverse apparel and accessories will keep you covered in the hottest styles and comfiest black hoodie imaginable.