Gucci Gg Marmont Animal Stud Black Leather Backpack

Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.

Guccio Gucci (1881–1953) admired the stylish suitcases he saw wealthy guests arrive with at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he worked as a bellhop. So, in 1921, after a stint at Franzi, a luggage company in his hometown of Florence, he opened a leather goods shop of his own.

At first, Gucci’s Florence business specialized in equestrian accessories. But as its reputation flourished, particularly among the English aristocracy, so too did its footprint. In 1938, he brought three of his sons — Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo — into the business and expanded it to Rome and later Milan. In the mid-1930s, a League of Nations embargo against Italy pushed Gucci to experiment with alternatives to imported leather. Its woven hemp fabric from Naples, adorned with the brand’s signature diamond print, was a hit, especially among A-list celebrities. The material was first used on suitcases before finding enduring popularity on handbags. (No list of revered designer purses would be complete without Gucci.)

In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor carried one of Gucci’s bamboo-handled tote bags, another adaptation to material rationing. After Jackie Kennedy was seen sporting a slouchy Gucci tote in 1961, it was renamed for the First Lady. Then Grace Kelly, on a visit to the boutique in Milan, inspired Rodolfo Gucci to work with Italian illustrator and Gucci textile designer Vittorio Accornero on the Flora print in 1966. Taking cues from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera, with its pattern of flora and insects, it was painted entirely by hand and featured no fewer than 37 colors.

In 1953, just 15 days after opening his first store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Guccio passed away at 72. The early 1970s saw store openings in Tokyo and Hong Kong, but by the late 1980s, Gucci was floundering. Rodolfo Gucci took charge in 1982, but family drama and lawsuits ensued. In 1993, Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, transferred his shares in the company to Investcorp, ending the family’s involvement in Gucci. Dawn Mello, then-president of Bergdorf Goodman, joined as creative director in 1989. But it was Tom Ford, who took over as creative director in 1994, who ultimately revived the brand.

Ford’s racy ads, shot by photographers such as Mario Testino, stirred controversy. And his potent vision of sexed-up femininity — with “jewel-toned satin shirts unbuttoned to there,” as Vogue described his breakthrough 1995 runway show — was wildly successful. The new millennium brought new ownership — Pinault Printemps Redoute in 2004 — and a more toned-down vision from Frida Giannini, who became sole creative director in 2006. Alessandro Michele was named creative director in 2015, and the storied brand took a giant leap forward.

Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.

Few brands have stood the test of time as resolvedly as the French House of Goyard, a family-owned maker of luxury handbags, totes and accessories in chic and timeless styles and a vibrant array of colors. The internationally renowned bags were born out of the maison’s original business of making leather goods and other luxury travel wares — once the favorite of the French aristocracy, Goyard trunks are highly sought-after antiques today.

Originally known as House of Martin, the brand was founded in Paris in 1792 by trunk maker Pierre-François Martin. It quickly grew in distinction, and, in 1841, Martin hired and passed on the business to his employee, Louis-Henri Morel. In 1845, Morel himself hired a 17-year-old apprentice named François Goyard, who eventually took over and renamed the company Maison Goyard (House of Goyard).

François' son, Edmond Goyard, ushered the business into a new era when he became the head of the company in 1885. He focused increasingly on elite and international clientele to grow the brand's prestige. Edmond also created a "pet chic" line of Goyard dog collars and other accessories.

Perhaps the greatest accomplishment of the younger Goyard was the Goyard signature canvas, as seen on the iconic luxury Saint Louis tote. Durable, lightweight and waterproof, it features a distinctive "Y" pattern created from three chevrons or different shades. This revolutionary canvas laid the foundation for the modern brand.

A daring innovator, Edmond Goyard took the brand to the World Exposition of Paris in 1900 and won a bronze medal. Gold medals at the World Exposition of Milan and the Franco-British Exposition of London followed. Goyard continued showing at World Expos, bringing the house even more international acclaim and the attention of esteemed clientele like Pablo Picasso, John D. Rockefeller and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

In 1998, the maison was purchased by passionate Goyard bag and trunk collector Jean-Michel Signoles. With the help of his family, he re-established the brand as a purveyor of luxury bags that continue to garner recognition.

Find unique Goyard purses, crossbody and messenger bags, top handle bags, wallets and other accessories on 1stDibs.