Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Late 19th Century Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
1910s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Sterling Silver, 10k Gold, Vermeil
20th Century Russian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Opal, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Brown Diamond, Black Diamond, White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver Plate
1990s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Sapphire, Black Opal, Sapphire, Opal, White Diamond, Diamond, Yello...
1970s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Onyx, White Diamond, Enamel, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Spinel, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 2000s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
White Diamond, Black Diamond, Brown Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Turquoise, Yellow Gold, 9k Gold
Early 2000s Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Jade, 14k Gold
Early 1900s Swiss Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver Plate
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
2010s African Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pink Sapphire, Sterling Silver
1980s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Silver
Late 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, Ruby, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Natural Pearl, Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Chinese Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Pearl, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Labradorite, Pearl, Aquamarine, Gold Plate
2010s French Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
1910s Danish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver
1910s Dutch Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Quartz, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1960s Japanese Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 14k Gold, 24k Gold, Yellow Gold, Bronze, Shakudo
1930s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Gold, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate
19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold...
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Other, Silver, Sterling Silver
1910s European Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amber, Diamond, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Italian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Enamel, 18k Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Enamel
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Jewelry
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel