Art Nouveau Necklaces
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, White Gold
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Necklaces
Marcasite, Rock Crystal, Sterling Silver
20th Century Swedish Art Nouveau Necklaces
Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Necklaces
Emerald, 14k Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
Mid-20th Century Chinese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Agate
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Necklaces
Freshwater Pearl, Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold-filled, Gilt Metal
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Art Nouveau Necklaces
Garnet, Spinel, 18k Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Necklaces
Jade, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, 14k Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Necklaces
Amber, Diamond, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Chinese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Garnet, Silver, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Necklaces
Citrine, Silver
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Necklaces
Amethyst, Pearl, Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Necklaces
Peridot, Gold, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Necklaces
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
1980s French Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1950s American Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
1960s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary Austrian Art Nouveau Necklaces
Silver Plate
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary Maltese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Maltese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Silver
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Necklaces
18k Gold
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Maltese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Maltese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Zircon, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Maltese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Zircon, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Maltese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Zircon, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
2010s American Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, White Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Necklaces
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary German Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Gold, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Austrian Art Nouveau Necklaces
Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Austrian Art Nouveau Necklaces
Silver Plate
Late 19th Century European Antique Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold
1910s Dutch Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Platinum
1910s Dutch Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Onyx, Platinum
Early 1900s French Antique Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Platinum, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Necklaces
Sapphire, Yellow Gold
2010s American Art Nouveau Necklaces
Amethyst, Aquamarine, Labradorite, Pearl, Gold Plate
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Necklaces
Opal, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Chinese Art Nouveau Necklaces
Quartz
1910s American Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Gold Plate, Enamel
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Necklaces
Rose Gold