Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Silvorra 925 Silver Peacock Motif 23.5ct Multi Gem Brooch Pendant with Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
This ornate 23.5 carat multi gem peacock brooch pendant is crafted in 925 sterling silver, showcasing a striking blend of Art Nouveau inspired elegance and regal motif design. Design...
Citrine, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Silver
Antique 18ct Yellow Gold, Art Nouveau Diamond & Seed Pearl 3 Cat Brooch
Located in Brighton, GB
Antique Cat Brooch 18ct Gold Stamped Circa 1910 Step into a world of elegance with this exquisite Art Nouveau brooch, crafted from rich 18ct yellow gold. This stunning piece feat...
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Style Emerald, Yellow Sapphire & Diamond Foliate Brooch Pendant Silver
Located in New York, NY
This gorgeous 14.08 carat emerald, yellow sapphire, and diamond brooch pendant is crafted in 925 sterling silver, showcasing a botanical design inspired by flowing natural forms. The...
Diamond, Emerald, Yellow Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Textured Ribbon Crystals Knot Bow New Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Textured Knot Bow Ribbon Crystals Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone, New. New, never used. Not any scratches or colour loss. 100% Genuine. A unique p...
Gold Plate
Antique Art Nouveau 14K Gold and Opal Cabochon Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique Art Nouveau stickpin In 14 karat gold. With a bezel-set opal cabochon to the center of a flowing stylized ribbon setting. Marked to the pin. Simply a wonderful sti...
Opal, 14k Gold
Elegant Art Nouveau Jade Stickpin
Located in New York, NY
Elegant Art Nouveau Jade Stickpin in 14k gold from early 1900's. Pear shaped jade panel set into whiplash patianed gold setting. 2.65" x .5". Signed with...
Jade, 14k Gold
18k Floral Art Nouveau Brooch - Victorian solid gold pin - Napoleon III
Located in Antwerp, BE
We are happy to introduce you to this work of art from the Napoleon III period during the late 19th century, also known as the late Victorian period. This floral themed collar brooch...
Natural Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Crystals Leaf Flower Elegant Modernist Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Logo CD Long Bar Flower Leaf Crystals Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% genuine. A unique piece. This...
Gold Plate
Art Deco Inspired Opal and Diamond Convertible Brooch Pendant in 925 Silver
Located in New York, NY
This captivating opal and diamond convertible brooch and pendant is crafted in 925 sterling silver. Showcasing a total gemstone weight of 4.95 carats, the luminous opal measures appr...
Diamond, Opal, Silver, Sterling Silver
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Padlock Key Gold Crystals Logo CD Retro Pin Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Logo CD Crystals Padlock Key Retro Modernist Pin Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Very light scratches, barely noticeable. 100% genuine. A...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior GROSSE 1959 Vintage Gold Massive Swirl Feather Chunky Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1959 Vintage Massive Extra Large Openwork Swirl Twist Feather Chunky Statement Brooch, Gold Plated Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss. 100% Ge...
Gold
D'Orlan Vintage Rare Gold Vivid Cute Otter Animal Branch Leaf Modernist Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
D'Orlan Vintage 1980s Unisex Vivid Cute Otter Animal Branch Leaf Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. 100% Genuine. This is gold plated stylised brooch. Safety-cat...
Gold Plate
Fairy Lady Art Nouveau Enamel Brooch Pin Necklace Silver and 18 Karat Gold
Located in Brooklyn, NY
Vintage Hand made in Spain Enamel - Necklace Brooch Sterling Silver (oxidized or black rhodium) and 18K Yellow Gold with brilliant Enamel colors approx size 2.5' inch long (65 mm) fe...
Diamond, Purple Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Sterling ...
Antique Art Nouveau 18K Gold Floral Brooch with Pearls, Circa 1910
Located in Antwerp, BE
This wonderful 18 karat solid gold floral brooch comes directly from the Art Nouveau period. Round in shape, this lovely antique brooch represents a beautiful flower bouquet. The bro...
Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Louis Comfort Tiffany Black Opal and Plique a Jour Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Tiffany Arts and Crafts Era Black Opal and Plique a Jour Brooch circa 1910's by Louis Comfort Tiffany with Julia Munson in 18k gold. Large peacock...
Opal, 18k Gold
Bochic “Orient” VIntage Sapphire, Amethyst & Tsavorite Brooch - 18K Gold & Silv
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Orient” Vintage Multi-Gem Brooch / Pendant Sapphire, Amethyst, Tsavorite & Ruby — Set in 18K Gold & Silver A striking expression of color, craftsmanship, and versatility, t...
Amethyst, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Tsavorite, 18k Gold, Silver
Christian Dior Vintage GROSSE 1964 Rare Gold Four Curled Swirl Wavy Leaf Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1964 Vintage Unisex Textured Four Curled Swirl Wavy Leaf Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition. Not any colour loss. 100% Genuine. ...
Gold Plate
14K Gold Art Nouveau Stick Pin with Enamel and Pearl Accents Early 20th Century
Located in New York, NY
A Captivating Glimpse of Art Nouveau Elegance Enhance your collection with this Art Nouveau 14K Gold Stick Pin, a delightful piece that perfectly e...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior Mitchel Maer Vintage Rare Red Eye Bird Lightning Penguin Brooch
By Mitchel Maer for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Mitchel Maer 1950s Vintage Large Long Vivid Ruby Red Eye Bird Penguin Whole Crystals Three Trio Lightning Modernist Brooch, Silver Plated Mitchel Maer was a prominent...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage 1968 GROSSE Gold Textured Layer Rose Curled Flower Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1968 Vintage Textured Vivid Flower Layers Rose Curled Leaf Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe light scratches, barely noticeab...
Gold Plate
Chanel Vintage 2001 Gripoix Ruby Citrine Sapphire Logo CC Cross Pendant Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 2001 01 A Unisex Gripoix Cross Abnormal Candy Clear Ruby Citrine Sapphire Red Yellow Blue Pink Brown Grey Cabochon Logo CC Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Pendant B...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior GROSSE 1961 Vintage Gold Leaf Vivid Trio Swirl Wavy Twist Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1961 Vintage Vivid Trio Swirl Wavy Twist Leaf Brooch, Gold Plated Very good condition. Light colour loss, barely noticeable. 100% Genuine. A small part of bac...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Unisex Gold Double Wavy Windy Leaf Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Unisex Large Vivid Double Textured Wavy Windy Leaf Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition, 100% Genuine. A unique piece. ...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Large Water Lily Palm Leaf Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Large Water Lily Palm Leaf Layers Crystals Exquisite Elegant Modernist Chunky Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% genuine. A uni...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Gold Textured Flame Wing Eye Rope Modernist Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Unisex Textured Flame Wing Eye Rope Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Good condition. Light scratches or colour loss. 100% Genuine. A unique piece. This gol...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior GROSSE Vintage Gold Rose Flower Curled Blossom Leaf Buds Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1970s Vintage Vivid Rose Flower Buds Blossom Curled Leaf Brooch Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe light scratches, barely not...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Unisex Gold White Pearls Croissant Twist Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Long Trio Three White Circle Pearls Croissant Twist Bar Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Excellent condition, very new. 100% Genuine. A uni...
Gold Plate
Faberge Diamond Enamel Flower Brooch Antique 1900 August Hollming Workmaster
By Fabergé
Located in New York, NY
This is an exquisite and rare antique FABERGÉ Rose Cut Diamond, Enamel and Red Cabochon Brooch modeled as a sprig of flowers with a translucent green enameled flower centered with a ...
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior 1964 Vintage Large Gold Vivid 3D Blossom Flourish Layers Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1964 Vintage Unisex Large Textured Vivid 3D Rose Blossom Flourish Layer Flower Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare 1967 GROSSE Lapis Blue Wings Feather Windmill Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Lapis Navy Blue Stone Wings Feather Flower Windmills Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss, bare...
Gold Plate
Kramer of New York Vintage 1950s Sapphire Navy Crystals Water Drop Knot Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Kramer of New York Vintage 1950s Sapphire Navy Blue Crystals Water Drop Knot Elegant Modernist Brooch, Silver Tone Good condition. Small chip at the large blue stone, barely noticea...
Silver Plate
ART NOUVEAU 14k Gold and platinum Brooch with 1.20ct Old Mine Cut Diamonds
Located in The Hague, ZH
14k white gold with platinum brooch set with Old Mine cut Diamonds up to 1.20 carat - 5.4 cm x 2.9 cm Detailed description The brooch is 5.4 cm wide and 2.9 cm high weight: 9.1 gr...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Platinum
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s White Pearl Crystals Flower Clover Gold Pin Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex White Round Pearl Crystals Flower Clover Blossom Elegant Modernist Pin Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches, barely noticeable....
Gold Plate
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Filigree Bow Crystals Gold Butterfly Elegant Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Vivid Butterfly Crystals Openwork Filigree Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. 100% genuine. A unique piece. This is gold pla...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Aquamarine & Pearl Brooch Set in Silver & Gold - France - Circa 1900
Located in Chatham, CA
Art Nouveau Aquamarine and pearl brooch set in silver and gold - featuring a bezel set emerald shape Aquamarine to the center (approx. 4.02...
Aquamarine, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Silver
Silvorra 925 Silver Moonlit White Opal & Diamond Peacock Plume Brooch Pendant
Located in New York, NY
This striking 10.9 Carat opal and diamond moonlit brooch pendant is meticulously crafted in 925 sterling silver. The captivating gemstone at center measures approximately 18 x 13 mm,...
Diamond, Opal, Silver, Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau 18 Karat Gold Rose Cut Diamond Lady Portrait Stick Pin Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
This is an Art Nouveau lady portrait stick pin brooch. It is crafted in 18K gold. Circa 1890. The piece features rose cut diamonds. Weight: 2.56g Length: 6.5cm Diameter: 1.7cm I...
Diamond, Gold
Antique Griffin Pin of 14k Gold with Gem Accents, Circa 1910
Located in Lewisburg, PA
Antique Griffin Brooch in 14k Gold with Gem Accents (c. 1910) A powerful symbol of protection and strength, this antique griffin brooch from circa 1910 is an exceptional example of ...
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold
Christian Dior GROSSE 1970s Gold Cat Vivid Cute Sit Crystals Chunky Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1970s Unisex Textured Vivid Cute Cat Sit Crystals Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Not any stones lost. 100% Genu...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Pearl Crystals White Round Flower Brooch Pin
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Vivid White Round Pearl Crystals Blossom Flower Elegant Modernist Pin Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. A unique piece. 100% genuine. This is go...
Gold Plate
Tiffany & Co. Old Mine Diamond Enamel Flower Lily Brooch Pin 1900 Antique Gold
Located in New York, NY
This is an extraordinary antique Old Mine Cut Diamond Enamel Flower Brooch in its Tiffany & Co. fitted box. The magnificent fully three dimensional f...
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior GROSSE 1961 Vintage Large 3D Vivid Rose Blossom Leaf Gold Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1961 Vintage Large 3D Vivid Rose Flower Blossom Leaf Stem Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Good condition. Light scratches or colour loss. Rare to find. 100...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage 1967 Silver Green Emerald Crystals Layers Domed Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1967 Emerald Green Crystals Circle Square 4 Layers Domed Brooch Peacock Eye Elegant Brooch, Silver Plated Very excellent condition. Not any stones lost. Very ...
Silver Plate
Christian Lacroix Vintage Massive Rare Sea Blue Shell Pearls Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage 1980s Unisex Massive Large Circle Round Openwork Sea Blue Navy Shell White Pearls Aurora Crystals Turquoise Red Beads Cabochon Chunky Statement Brooch, Gold...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau c.1900 French Silver, Plique-à-Jour and Paste Antique Brooch
Located in Skelmersdale, GB
This outstanding brooch was made in France and features a wonderfully elegant original Art Nouveau design. Condition Report: Excellent The Details... This brooch is constructed fro...
Silver
Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch from the early 20th Century of vermeil sterling. A spray of plique green to rose enamel leaves with p...
Vermeil, Sterling Silver
Vintage 1930's Sterling Silver Cameo Brooch Pendant Shell Silhouette Marcasite
Located in Nashville, TN
This wonderful 1930's cameo brooch and pendant, , in a sterling silver metal frame, embellished with clusters of small marcasite stones, is the perfect piece for your jewellery colle...
Marcasite, Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch 30 OMC Diamonds Ruby Enamel 18 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
A wonderful and rare early Art Nouveau Brooch Pendant in the form of a Butterfly. The magnificent Butterfly is 18 Karat Gold. It is set with 30 gorgeous Old Mine Cut Diamonds. The...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Christian Dior 1964 Vintage Large Flower Vivid 3D Rose Blossom Flourish Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1964 Vintage Large Vivid 3D Rose Blossom Flourish Flower Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss, barely noticeable. 1...
Gold Plate
American Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Wonderful American Art Nouveau 14k Plique a Jour Brooch of enameled poppies on a pale green plique a jour ground. Flowers modeled in high relief w...
14k Gold
Art Nouveau Enamel Violet Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau Enamel Violet Brooch from the turn of the 20th Century. Lovely, realistically rendered handmade brooch with vibrant green and pearl wh...
Sterling Silver, Enamel
Antique Enamel Sweet Pea Brooch of 14k Gold, Circa 1910
Located in Lewisburg, PA
Delicate and romantic, this antique brooch (circa 1910) features a trio of sweet pea blossoms, each rendered in vibrant white, pink, and purple enamel atop a finely crafted 14k gold ...
14k Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior Vintage Rare 1966 White Pearls Crystals Openwork Domed Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1966 Vintage White Round Circle Pearls Sparkling Shining Crystals Openwork Floral Dome Chunky Elegant Modernist Brooch, Silver Tone Very good condition, not any stone...
Silver Plate
Art Nouveau 14K Yellow Gold Enamel Baroque Pearl Flower and Moon Motif Brooch
Located in New York, NY
A Delicate Triumph of Early 20th-Century Craftsmanship Immerse yourself in the romantic elegance of the American Art Nouveau period with this 14K Yellow Gold Iridescent Enamel and Ba...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Large 3D Textured Vivid Floral Rose Blossom Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Iconic Large 3D Textured Vivid Floral Rose Blossom Flourish Flower Chunky Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Very rare to find. Light scratches or ...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior 1966 Vintage Unisex Green Cabochon Oval Rectangle Elegant Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1966 Vintage Unisex 4 Four Dark Green Emerald Oval Rectangle Cabochon Elegant Monderist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss, barely ...
Gold Plate
ART NOUVEAU Brooch with old mine cut diamonds up to 0.92ct 18k gold and platinum
Located in The Hague, ZH
18k gold with platina brooch set with Old Mine cut diamonds up to 0.92ct – G/H – SI detailed description: the size of the brooch is 4.5 cm long by 2.0 cm wide weight 5.5 grams s...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
Antique Georg Jensen early Brooch 830 std C.1927
By Georg Jensen
Located in Toronto, ON
Antique Georg Jensen early Brooch 830 std C.1927. Design number 97 open floral , original catch and pin to reverse. Reverse engraved A.A. June 30, 1927. Full GI 830 Denmark 97 marks ...
Silver
Christian Dior GROSSE 1970 Triangle Trio Openwork Mesh Interlocked Oval Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1970 Vintage Unisex Triangle Trio Openwork Interlocked Oval Spiral Twist Mesh Rope Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour l...
Gold Plate
Masriera 18KT Yellow Gold Dragonfly Brooch/ Pendant 2.94Ct Diamond 1.69Ct Ruby
Located in New York, NY
From the house of the prolific Art Nouveau designer, Luis Masriera comes a long tradition of prestige, creativity and unparalleled craftsmanship. These stylistically distinctive works of art, have been crafted by Masriera since 1839 and continue to be made today with the techniques used decades ago: plique-à-jour, basse-taille, champlevé, vitreous enameling and Barcelona enameling. This magnificent 18 karat yellow gold dragonfly brooch is designed with the plique-a-jour enamel technique. Round brilliant diamonds and rubies are set throughout this very special brooch...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold