Art Nouveau Brooches
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Brooches
Gold, 18k Gold, 22k Gold, 24k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold
1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Jade, 14k Gold
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Garnet, Yellow Gold
1990s Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Gold Plate
Late 19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
1970s North American Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 9k Gold, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century German Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Spinel, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
19th Century French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Garnet, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 18k Gold, Enamel
1890s French Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century British Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Silver
1980s German Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Rhodium
2010s French Art Nouveau Brooches
18k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s English Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Brooches
Crystal, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Early 19th Century Italian Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Ruby, Tsavorite, Gold, Enamel
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Mid-20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver, Enamel
1970s Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1940s American Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Early 20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel
19th Century British Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, Gold, 9k Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
14k Gold
Mid-20th Century Italian Art Nouveau Brooches
Opal, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Yellow Gold, 9k Gold
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Yellow Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
1950s American Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Base Metal
19th Century Unknown Antique Art Nouveau Brooches
Coral, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, White Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1990s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold, Sterling Silver
Early 2000s Spanish Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Brooches
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Enamel
Mid-20th Century Danish Art Nouveau Brooches
Sterling Silver
