Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Garnet, Opal, Blue Sapphire, Spinel, Tourmaline, Black Opal, Pa...
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Coral, Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Zircon, Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, Enamel
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Malachite, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, Gold-filled, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, White Gold
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Diamond, 14k Gold
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sterling Silver
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Rose Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, Rose Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Peridot, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue...
1890s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Rose Gold, Gold, White Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
1910s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Ruby, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
15k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Agate, Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Agate, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Black Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 10k Gold, Enamel
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, 14k Gold
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold Plate
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Turquoise, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Gold, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Gold, 9k Gold, White Gold
Late 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, 9k Gold, Sterling Silver, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tourmaline, Sterling Silver
19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Enamel, Gold, 10k Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
Early 1900s Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold
1970s Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Other
Early 20th Century Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Read More
Everything You’d Want to Know about Enamel Jewelry
From vibrant to subtle, elegant to cheeky, enamel jewelry encompasses a wide range of colors and styles, and there are almost as many techniques for creating these distinctive pieces.
What Makes Art Nouveau Jewelry So Collectible?
The first art and design movement of the 20th century was all about celebrating beauty of women and nature.