Art Nouveau Jewelry
Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Jade
Early 1900s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, 14k Gold
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Gold Plate, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Ruby, Topaz, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Silver, Sterling Silver
1940s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Early 17th Century Afghan Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet
1930s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum, Gold
Late 19th Century Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver
Late 19th Century European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Pearl, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tourmaline, 14k Gold
1930s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, 14k Gold
Early 1900s German Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Silver, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
1910s Austrian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 14k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Sterling Silver, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Zircon, Silver, Rose Gold, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver, Sterling Silver
1940s Japanese Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Enamel
1920s English Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, Silver, Sterling Silver
1880s American Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, Enamel
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Turquoise, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
1910s European Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
1940s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Sterling Silver
Mid-20th Century American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Carnelian, Sterling Silver, Mixed Metal
1960s Turkish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, 22k Gold
Early 1900s Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Ruby, 18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver, Sterling Silver
1930s German Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 14k Gold, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Opal, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Green Sap...
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Sterling Silver, Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphi...
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Topaz, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Turquoise, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Central American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Tanzanite, Zircon, Rhodium, Silver, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Zircon, Silver, Rose Gold, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
Late 19th Century Austrian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
1920s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
22k Gold
1890s English Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Silver
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Peridot, Topaz, Blue Topaz, Silver, Sterling Silver
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Tourmaline, Gold Plate, Sterling Silver, Silver
2010s Hong Kong Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Garnet, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Russian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Ruby, Silver, 14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Brazilian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst
Early 1900s Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1950s Turkish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold, 22k Gold, Rose Gold
2010s Swedish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
2010s Swedish Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold
2010s Belgian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
1950s Italian Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold
1910s Swedish Vintage Art Nouveau Jewelry
Sapphire, 18k Gold
2010s Indian Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amber, Diamond, Sterling Silver
21st Century and Contemporary American Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Zircon, Silver, Sterling Silver
Early 1900s Georgian Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
14k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Thai Art Nouveau Jewelry
Amethyst, Garnet, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate...
Early 1900s Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1860s Swedish Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
18k Gold
Early 1900s European Antique Art Nouveau Jewelry
Diamond, Silver, 18k Gold