Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Throughout the early 20th century, Marcus & Co. established a reputation as one of the finest American producers of Art Nouveau jewelry. The firm’s innovative techniques included the use of plique-à-jour enameling. During the 1900s, this rare method was used by only three other jewelry companies in the United States — Tiffany & Co., Riker Bros. and Whiteside and Blank.
Marcus & Co. was founded in 1892, in New York City, by Herman Marcus and his son William. Herman was born and raised in Germany, where he worked as a jeweler for Ellemeyer, the court jewelers of Dresden, before moving to the United States in 1850.
After arriving in New York City, Herman worked as a designer at several prestigious luxury firms, including Ball, Black & Co., Tiffany & Co. and was a partner at Starr and Marcus before he went into business with William. Later, they were joined by Herman’s other son, George.
Herman worked with his sons until his death in 1899, when William and George expanded the firm to include a silversmithing department to make serveware. However, Marcus & Co. focused mainly on jewelry design and manufacturing, offering Revival-style pieces.
In 1900, the company exhibited a series of striking orchid motif brooches at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. The brooches attracted critical acclaim for their plique-à-jour enameling and intricate detail — characteristics that would become Marcus & Co.’s signature.
The company’s Art Nouveau jewelry took shape during the 1920s and 1930s. Cocktail rings, engagement rings, necklaces and cufflinks featured fine diamonds, natural pearls and gems rarely seen during that period, such as peridots, zircons, spinels and chrysoberyls. Marcus & Co.’s designs were comparable by critics to fine art jewelry made by René Lalique and attracted high-profile clientele like business tycoon John D. Rockefeller.
Despite Marcus & Co.’s success, the firm closed briefly during World War II. In 1962, they merged with the company Black, Starr & Frost.
Marcus & Co. pieces are still highly coveted among jewelry collectors. The firm’s Art Nouveau plique-à-jour accessories, a technique that sees enamel powder applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away — instead applying the enamel directly to metal — are particularly collectible. In 2011, a Morning Glory plique-à-jour pendant brooch and chain made in 1900 sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $302,500.
On 1stDibs, discover antique Marcus & Co. brooches, rings and decorative objects.
Early 1900s American Art Deco Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold
1920s Egyptian Revival Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1920s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
1920s American Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Crystal, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Deco Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
1920s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Spinel, Black Spinel, Platinum
1910s American Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1940s American Retro Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 14k Gold
1930s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Moonstone, Platinum
1930s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Opal, Black Opal, Platinum
Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Pearl, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century English Edwardian Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Sapphire, 14k Gold
1910s Edwardian Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s Victorian Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1930s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
Early 1900s Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1970s American Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Black Opal, Yellow Gold
1910s Art Nouveau Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
14k Gold
1920s American Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Sapphire, Platinum
Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Unknown Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Gold
Early 1900s Art Nouveau Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Amethyst, Freshwater Pearl, 18k Gold
Early 20th Century Unknown Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
Early 20th Century American Art Deco Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
American Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Early 20th Century American Edwardian Marcus & Co. Jewelry
14k Gold
1920s British Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Spinel, Platinum
1920s Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Sapphire, 14k Gold, White Gold
Early 20th Century Swiss Art Deco Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, White Gold, Platinum
1920s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Platinum
1930s American Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
20th Century Art Deco Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
Early 20th Century British Art Deco Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Ruby, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1930s European Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Platinum
1920s Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Early 1900s Edwardian Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Crystal, Quartz, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century Unknown Edwardian Marcus & Co. Jewelry
14k Gold
1940s Unknown Art Deco Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Platinum
Early 20th Century American Edwardian Marcus & Co. Jewelry
14k Gold
Early 1900s Art Nouveau Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Opal, 14k Gold, Enamel
Early 1900s American Arts and Crafts Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
1910s American Edwardian Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
20th Century American Art Deco Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Purple...
20th Century Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Gold
1910s American Edwardian Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Emerald, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Early 1900s American Art Nouveau Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Diamond, Peridot, Gold, Platinum
Early 1900s American Arts and Crafts Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Citrine, Onyx, Gold, 14k Gold
1910s American Art Nouveau Vintage Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Moonstone, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Victorian Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Crystal, Rock Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Early 1900s Victorian Antique Marcus & Co. Jewelry
Rock Crystal, Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Marcus & Co. jewelry & watches for sale on 1stDibs.
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