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A Close Look at art-deco Jewelry
Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.
The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.
However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)
While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.
Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.
A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.
Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right anklets for You
Diamond and gold anklets and other vintage and antique bracelets can provide the oft-needed finishing touch to a formal look for an evening out as easily as they can spice up your daily casual attire.
Anklets date back thousands of years with a history of adornment in South Asia, ancient Egypt and Bronze Age Europe. Unlike some jewelry worn during those earlier centuries, anklets did not convey any class significance among the wearers.
Anklets are also known as ankle bracelets or ankle chains as they tend to consist of thinner materials, whereas bracelets might have thicker fabrics and weightier metals. Over the years, the anklet spread in popularity, particularly in the 1920s — Art Deco jewelry designers frequently incorporated colorful stones in the bracelets of the era — and as part of hippie style in the 1960s.
Today, anklets are a beautiful way to incorporate more jewelry into one’s outfit or ensemble. Some ankle bracelets consist of braided materials while others have luxury gemstones, like diamonds.
Anklets can be found in a range of styles including contemporary, modern, retro and Art Nouveau. Browse an extensive collection of vintage diamond and gold anklets on 1stDibs today.