Jean Muir Leather Dress

With simple, classic designs, Jean Muir became known as the doyenne of British fashion, counting such luminaries as Princess Alexandra, Glenda Jackson and Lauren Bacall as clients. Similar to Diane von Furstenberg and her signature wrap dresses, Muir was most famous for the matte jersey dresses she initially designed for herself. Born in London, she got her fashion start at the age of 11 when she began designing her own clothing. Muir’s popular vintage dresses and gowns boast small shoulders, a slightly raised waist and a sheath-like skirt, perfect for someone with a petite frame like her own. In fact, Muir tried on every dress before it went into production.

The Jean Muir look — pared down, elegant and timeless — earned the designer an over 40-year-long career, which started in the stockroom at London’s famous Liberty luxury department store. Shortly after her stint in sorting inventory, she became a sketcher in the store’s made-to-measure department. After working as a designer for Jaeger, she was hired by dress manufacturer David Barnes in 1962. There, her jersey designs were so popular she was given her own label: Jane & Jane. She soon caught the attention of a buyer who brought her to Henri Bendel, where her career soared. Just four years after joining Jane & Jane, she started Jean Muir Ltd. with her husband, Harry Leuckert, a German actor.

During her long career, Muir never strayed from her signature long, fluid lines and feminine silhouettes that were especially flattering when the wearer moved. The jersey gave the dresses an architectural appearance and a flexibility in the designs as, unlike silk, the material doesn’t have to be hand-sewn or lined, nor do the edges need to be lined up and bound together to appear neat. Muir was particularly drawn to the simplicity of navy and black fabric, with topstitching giving even the most minimal styles some flair. Although jersey dominated her looks, she also worked with her team of expert craftspeople to punch patterns in suede, create draped textures with leather, tailor wool crepe, paint patterns on cashmere and stitch dramatic layers of tiered silk.

After her death, Muir’s team continued creating her beloved day dresses and evening gowns for another 12 years, carrying on her legacy. In 2007, the label closed, although the vintage dresses are enduringly popular with those seeking refinement and elegance in modern designs.

Find a collection of Jean Muir evening dresses, suits, jackets and other garments on 1stDibs.

From museum-worthy vintage Oscar de la Renta evening dresses and jackets to audacious T-shirts and trousers from provocative punk designer Vivienne Westwood, one thing is abundantly clear: If the clothing available on 1stDibs could talk, it would certainly make a statement. 

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers — think Galliano and Cavalli — but maybe ‘80s accessories are among your (guilty?) pleasures. Playful, boldly colored coats and outerwear from Moschino and other titans of the era can take a simpler ensemble to the next level, while chic and practical suits from the likes of Christian Dior and Chanel remain classic for haute couture advocates and beyond. By exploring the vast array of vintage collections on these pages, you can transform your closet into a retreat that is as retro as it is royal. 

Velvet cocktail dresses and silk evening gowns designed by French-born American couturiere Pauline Trigère — who dressed Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor — have proven timeless since their mid-century debut, while an overcoat by Alexander McQueen is the perfect finishing touch. In fact, an emerald one stays in rotation for Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge.

Those seeking modern high-fashion brands are also in luck. Turn your day-to-day into a runway with selections from Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace or complete that fresh look with stunning footwear classics from the likes of Gucci and Christian Louboutin. The future — and glamorous past — of fashion is yours for the wearing. 

Build your collection of covetable and iconic vintage garments by shopping on 1stDibs. No matter where you roam, our diverse apparel and accessories will keep you covered in the hottest styles and comfiest black hoodie imaginable.