Krementz Strand Of Pearls

Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.

Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.

The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.

Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.

This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.

In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.

Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.

Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.

Vintage link necklaces are a popular style of jewelry that sees a flexible set of links, usually metal, fashioned into versatile neckwear. The design of link necklaces creates an engaging movement, rendering the jewelry a focal point of any outfit.

Chain necklaces date back to antiquity. These early chains frequently used the loop-in-loop technique. They evolved into symbols of prestige. Royalty in medieval Europe wore gold jewelry often adorned with beads and gemstones.

Over the centuries, artisans and jewelry makers developed different types of chain links. Chain-link necklaces with oval links or mariner links are currently fashionable, but styles have changed from one decade to the next. While some eras have favored large chains as statement pieces, others emphasized dainty jewelry, so vintage link necklaces offer a wide range of link types.

The link is an important consideration when choosing a chain. The twisted curb chain is unique and striking in form; flat link chains and cable chains feature bold oval-shaped links. Infinity chains use links of assorted sizes for added variety. In men’s jewelry, chains with box chain links or Cuban links have tight rows and angular shapes lending a more masculine flair.

Link necklaces are also made in a variety of metals. Gold link necklaces are ideal to match warmer hues; silver link necklaces pair well with cool tones in your wardrobe. A simple gold or silver chain can complement a favorite blouse, or it can be dressed up with a pendant necklace. A necklace with pearls, diamonds, amethysts or sapphires can add a pop of color.

Browse 1stDibs for a large selection of vintage link necklaces and other necklaces. From gold to silver jewelry, as well as different types of links and pendants, there is a link necklace to suit any taste.